I didn't think of putting my feet on it. Won't the carrier sit on the differential housing without rolling out, meaning pop the bearings free and let it sit on the ring gear on the bottom of the housing so I can unhook the come along and turn around to grab it?
All it takes to find out is poke your head over the tire and look for gear oil on the knuckle below the axle shaft. I could smell mine when I got out of the truck.

 

yes, it's fairly stable. but i didn't know that and didn't want to take any chances of it falling out. and its heavy as hell.

 

No come along needed. The guy that installed the gears shimmed the bearings and while it was a snug fit, it wasn't as tight as the first time I took the carrier out. Hopefully there is enough pre-load so that it won't be a problem (the wear pattern on the ring gear looks perfect). When I pulled on the second bearing cap I noticed that the carrier moved so I held it still while pulling the cap off then pulled the whole thing out without issue.
Did you know that the bearing caps are already marked (I learned this from the 2001 service manual)? Mine have a G on them with another G on the gasket surface next to each cap. One cap has the G vertical and the other side has it sideways. The G stamped into the gasket surface is also sideways/vertical to match the caps.
The hub nut and bolts broke loose like they were installed yesterday, I'm glad I used anti-seize when I put them back on last time.
I started late like I always do so I'm not done yet. I got the driver seal in and got that side put back together along with getting the differential cover back on. The passenger seal and everything attached to that side still need to be installed but I'll get that on my next day off.

 

So much for getting it on the next day off. The daily routine for not finishing was work, work, work, too cold, too cold, work, work, golf, too lazy, work, work, golf, too lazy, then there was today when I finally went to finish and hit a snag.

I rounded up the tools I needed to finish the job and when I grabbed the axle shaft to set it on the table next to the truck so it could wait to be installed after the cad unit I heard "eek eek". So I was like "WTF" and I wiggled the yoke a little, "eek eek eek". Two of the caps are nice and loose and squeaking, the other two are about seized up. Crap, it'll be sitting for a few more days because I'm going to replace both u-joints before I can call it done. I didn't wiggle the driver u-joint around to assess its condition but I assume it's bad too.
If it turns out that it's too cold on my next day off then I'm just going to break out the torpedo heater.

 

look at the Precision/Moog brand 377. They're greaseable, but you also need the screw in grease fitting adapter. they don't have zerks because of low clearance.

rockauto has them for $16.88

 

Oreilly auto has them for 25.99. With shipping included I would save $7 plus a few days for shipping or I could just spend the extra money and go pick them up Wednesday.

 

check advance auto with 15% discount plus $25 off future order. code=NVB5.

what i like to do is order online, get the discount, then pick up in store (in stock). they say wait an hour but i don't. i just drive right over and pick it up. the online order prints out on their computer immediately.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hTerm=u-joints


you'll need one of these. it screws into the u-joint, then into the grease hose. the threads are under the black rubber cap. i couldn't find a zerk with these threads. you might have better luck than me.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...soa&showTitle=
Part No. MTN2500-SOA
(link fixed)

pic replaced, see below.

 

That sounds even better. Thanks.

 

link above fixed for screw in grease fitting.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...soa&showTitle=

 

So does the rubber just protect the threads while it's not in use? And is there a screw in plug on the u-joint caps?