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Front end issue, ball joints??

Old Aug 5, 2009 | 01:44 AM
  #41  
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that 3/4" breaker bar is just like mine, but i didn't bend it when i took my axle nuts off. i'm glad i don't live up north where the roads get salted in the winter and i don't have to worry about rust locking up all my bolts.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 07:25 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by jeremey78
Great thread...I am having the same issues. I am trying to replace the front axle joints. I got all the bolts off, soaked it for a while, beat on it for quite a while, but can't get the bearing to break loose. I have heard several times to put in some sacrificial bolts and beat on the ends to pop out the bearing. But...all the places I hear that, people are replacing the bearing as well. If I can add a question to this topic, will that ruin the threads if you want to reuse the bearing? I guess people will say it depends on how hard you hit them, but can you safely hit them pretty good.
provided you have full thread contact deep into the bearing, it will not hurt the threads and usually will not hurt the bearing. if the bearing should separate, well, it wasn't coming out anyway, so there wasn't anything else you could have done about it.

do NOT beat directly on the heads of the 12 pts. you don't want to screw them up. you can place a socket over the bolt head, and beat on that. a light beating won't hurt, but beware, a lot of beating will deform the end of the socket and make it unusable.

another trick is to put a socket and extension on the bolt head, and wedge it into a steering piece. crank the truck and turn the wheel and use the power steering as a press against the bolt. be careful doing this that you don't get killed by a flying socket and extension.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 12:27 AM
  #43  
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This has been great advice, and I am hoping that there are more answers...I have a 98 with the bearing issue...3rd one on the driver side...can do mine in about 45 minutes...wish I knew about the axle part. the seal up by the pumpkin? tough to replace?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 01:40 AM
  #44  
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tough to replace- nah.
will it take a while- yeah.
the driver side is a pain because you have to remove your carrier to get to it.
i just replaced both of my axle seals a month or two ago.

use this link and you'll be set.
http://www.pavementsucks.com/tech-article-3.html

you shouldn't be eating up bearings. so something is off. do you have non factory rims that have less backspacing? or oversized tires (like 35" or bigger)? or is the stub shaft bent, or the u joint locked up?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 03:55 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
correct. leave axles in and just tap the bearings/hubs out.
tap may not be an entirely proper term if his are rusted on like mine were, power steering to the rescue.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 08:49 AM
  #46  
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3hr labor per alldatapro. for both sides
 
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 03:49 PM
  #47  
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Ive got after market rims, and am running 33x12.5x15s with a 2.5(3) inch tuff country lift that the prior owner had professionally installed. I am the 3rd owner on this rig. I have had problems since day one. not sure on the back spacing on the wheels...
 
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 04:08 PM
  #48  
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the width of the wheels aids in the wheel bearings destruction. the backspacing on the rims probably helps too. how much do the wheels stick out?
 
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 07:41 PM
  #49  
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Mine has 4 wheel ABS
 
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Old Oct 27, 2009 | 07:44 PM
  #50  
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Use PB Blaster. Spray it liberally the night before. Then remove the hub the next morning using a hammer of sufficient size.
 
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