You can get everything from Lowes except the radiator side. That requires a dremel and a hose clamp!

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...r-install.html

 

I haven't read the original thread in a while, but from what I remembered it seemed to have a lot more cutting and splicing and lots of connectors on both sides. Purple actually made his thread to eliminate some of the connectors. I'll reread the threads when I get to the point of doing it. I just thought I could get away with connectors on one side and just a clamp on the other. The side benefit was that if anything ever went wrong you could just pull out the old hose and reconnect it.

 

Looks like old Purp has got a damn good system if installing a filter along with the delete, I'd go with the original writeup if only doing the valve delete.
There is no cutting or splicing, simply a matter of replacing a hose with a check valve with one without one - With old hose intact, to do with as you please.
I threw mine away, since it was already blistered as it was.

 

yes yes hamer down this is exactly what me and dad did on my 2001 . i looked at aim4squirrels write up and i went with all the part numbers to napa and the only thing they didn't have was the quick disconnect fitting and it wouldn't be in till Monday but i couldn't wait,i just got my trans back from being rebuilt and i wanted it running that weekend. I think this way is a little easier because you already have all the fittings only differences is that we used a air die grinder to cut the crimped fitting ends off and we also used 1foot 3/8 350psi hose from napa and mainly i like to use what they call FUEL INJECTION HOSE CLAMPS for anything over 20psi i really recommend them just for comfort and they look really nice compared to worm clamps.
also id like to add: to look in the check valve housing we used a treble light from in front of the housing and you can see rite in there
I can add pics of the finished piece if that may help?
also the quick disconnect outlet from napa is 1/4 inch and the factory is not its just a straight 3/8 quick disconnect to 3/8 barbed end so there may be a little less restriction i guess?

 

i also have a drain back problem. i just start it and drop it in neutral for about 5-10 seconds before i take off and its fine.

 

i take back my statement on drainback, i have a slight drainback problem now, but i credit that due to the front of my carport being a little taller than the back, it's real weird now with the cold weather, go out and start the truck 10 minutes before i leave, put it in neutral for a few seconds before i take off, back out, go to put it in drive, i have to hold it in neutral for a second or so, or it will stall out, i think mostly b/c the tranny fluid is so friggin cold when the temp drops to 0

 

not trying to sound dumb but what is the point in doing this?

 

because the check ball clogs up with clutch dust and cuts off the transmission cooler, leading to overheating, leading to transmission failure.

 

I'm gonna play devil's advocate here, why not just take the check valve out and clean it? Then put an external filter on?

 

I know 2 guys who had their trans wrecked directly for the check ball, leaving it in is playing Russian Roulette with your tranny, simple.
Concept was good, implementation terrible.

I never considered cleaning it and putting it back in because:

* These high pressure hoses don't lend themselves well to DIY disassembly
* Since there is no way to tell if they are perfect, partially clogged or totally clogged, you'd have to do it again in the future, or risk tranny failure due to a .50 metal ball.

To use an analogy, you got a boil on your ***, cut it off and move on.