Tranny check valve delete II
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Tranny check valve delete II
In response to aimforsquirrels' write up, I would like to post the way that I got rid of my check valve. (Bare with me, my write up can't be as good as I didn't think to take any pictures
)
All you need is:
Diagonal cutters
Adjustable or open end wrench
Dremel with cutting wheel
Hemostat (very skinny needlenose plyers will work also
Eyeglass repair type screwdriver
Hose clamp (sized for the transmission cooler line.
Hammer
Getting started:
First, cut the hose between the check valve and radiator as close to the check valve as possible to leave enough slack in the line for later.
Next, use the your wrenches to remove the check valve from the remaining line.
Now, with the valve free, find a solid work surface and remove the remaining hose and crimped steel piece which hold the hose to the valve (this is where your dremel with a cutting wheel comes in handy)
You now have a bare check valve. You will need the small eyeglass repair type screwdriver. The tip does not matter, because this tool is sacrificial. Break the flat or philips tip form the driver's thin, metal handle.
Place the check valve upright on the work surface (which side is up doesn't matter) and insert the the handle into the valve until it rests on the rubber ball within the valve.
Supporting the driver handle and valve with one hand (or vice) use your hammer to tap the top of the driver handle until the rubber valve comes out through the bottom of the housing. Look through the housing to make sure all of the rubber ball is removed.
With the rubber ball out of the way, the only thing left to remove is the spring. This is where a doctor's hemostat will come in handy though very small plyers or tweezers should work. Use your tool of choice to reach into the valve housing and pull the spring from it.
Finish by thoroughly cleaning and inspecting the inside of the housing with carb and choke cleaner (allow to dry).
Your now uncloggable valve body may be reinstalled into your truck using the new hose clamp.
This way, you can keep a close to stock appearance while reducing your chance of transmission failure due to overheating.
)All you need is:
Diagonal cutters
Adjustable or open end wrench
Dremel with cutting wheel
Hemostat (very skinny needlenose plyers will work also
Eyeglass repair type screwdriver
Hose clamp (sized for the transmission cooler line.
Hammer
Getting started:
First, cut the hose between the check valve and radiator as close to the check valve as possible to leave enough slack in the line for later.
Next, use the your wrenches to remove the check valve from the remaining line.
Now, with the valve free, find a solid work surface and remove the remaining hose and crimped steel piece which hold the hose to the valve (this is where your dremel with a cutting wheel comes in handy)
You now have a bare check valve. You will need the small eyeglass repair type screwdriver. The tip does not matter, because this tool is sacrificial. Break the flat or philips tip form the driver's thin, metal handle.
Place the check valve upright on the work surface (which side is up doesn't matter) and insert the the handle into the valve until it rests on the rubber ball within the valve.
Supporting the driver handle and valve with one hand (or vice) use your hammer to tap the top of the driver handle until the rubber valve comes out through the bottom of the housing. Look through the housing to make sure all of the rubber ball is removed.
With the rubber ball out of the way, the only thing left to remove is the spring. This is where a doctor's hemostat will come in handy though very small plyers or tweezers should work. Use your tool of choice to reach into the valve housing and pull the spring from it.
Finish by thoroughly cleaning and inspecting the inside of the housing with carb and choke cleaner (allow to dry).
Your now uncloggable valve body may be reinstalled into your truck using the new hose clamp.
This way, you can keep a close to stock appearance while reducing your chance of transmission failure due to overheating.
If you look at aim4squirrels post, it has pictures to see on how it was done. I do have a question. Since you took the one way valve out are you having any drain back problems, when the truck has sat overnite?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 426
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None whatsoever.
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Captain
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 526
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From: Ohio
But I did install a external oil filter for the trans. for added filtering so that might be my issue.
