Your ALT may not have built in rectifiers- that's why it tested good. Some do and some do not. That's why some are very expensive and some are much less to replace. I would check to see where the external rectifier is and have it tested (if it's external) I don't know what year / make you have.

 

just rechecked all fuses again, then 140 amp one in the front where the battery cable and alt attatch is cooked. I dont think this would affect it not starting?

 

I am not entirely sure of what you mean other than you have dead fuse which needs to be replaced. That part of the circuit is dead and sure, without that fuse, your alt and whatever else runs through it is not even connected thus triggering a fault code as well as powering down via the ASD relay.

Just go through all the fuses and relays as well as the fuses in the cab. Replace as needed and retest. Hopefully the fuse saved your PCM.

 

^+1 on that fuse probably saving your butt from major problems. No guarantee though that it is your only problem.

 

A friend of mine stopped by to take a look at it, he thinks theres a valve or something binding up since I cant get the crank to spin with a wrench on it. I'm 6'2, 220 lbs, I was hanging off the wrench and the crank would not budge.

 

I move mine with a 1/2 inch drive with one hand. I was able to rotate mine while lying under there with one hand when I was checking my crankshaft for clearance on my oil pump.

The torque required to rotate the engine is 35 ft lbs so, for a six foot plus, 220 lb dude and a breaker bar- there's something f'd up. Bid dude like that plus a bar? whoa - stop. There's something definitely wrong there. Unless your running some serious compression, you should be able to rotate it no problem.

 

When did this issue first appear? Let's go back to the beginning. We went from a starting issue to a no start condition to a dead (shorted battery) battery to, an ALT that was removed to it firing up to not being able to fire it up to a seized up engine?

Was there any mechanical problems with this engine at all prior to this mishap and starting issue?

If it was a stuck valve- it would have made a loud racket and would have popped like a ***** through the intake or the exhaust depending on which one was stuck. That would make a mechanical noise and indicate a mechanical failure.

I do recall you stating that it ran fine- for a bit before quitting. So, I can't think of anything off the top of my head of where to start looking other than to check your flywheel first for any obstructions. Recall the starter was removed so, start there.

1. remove the bat cables.
2. Remove the starter.
3. Remove the sheet metal covering the bell housing
4. Shine a light- look for a broken, or cracked flywheel. If no- proceed to next step.
5. Drop the oil pan and check your crank.
6. While under there, shine a light up into each cylinder. Look for gross failures. Check for broken connecting rods by reaching up and moving every rod one at a time. Feel for loose or broken connecting rods.
If all checks out- then, it would be time to stop and think about taking the heads off or, at least the valve covers and start checking things out.

 

Right it started normal before the charger incident. Both times I got it to run it was smooth with no knocking. This not cranking phase started after the charger incident.

 

What we are trying to tell you is that the charger being hooked up backwards would not/could not possibly cause you to not be able to spin the engine with a socket and breaker bar. You have something causing you to not be able to turn the engine with the breaker bar. Like cmckenna said pull your battery cables and remove your starter and see if it turns over with the breaker bar. If it does then pull the inspection cover at the bellhousing of the trahhy and like stated above look for a cracked or broken flywheel. You have to take baby steps here as you have had so many apparent failures in such short notice. we can help you work this one issue at a time, but only if you follow the advice you are given.

 

Nope I understand that and I appreciate the help. When I get out of work tomorrow I'll pull the starter and check it out. I was real careful to not drop anything in the heads, so I'm sure it's flywheel related. If it means anything every now and then it will get a burst of power and start to spin at almost the normal speed.