other than the obvious whats the purpose of the ASD?

 

Dude, this is so bad for an engine. That's one reason why emergency vehicles have such short service lives, because they sit idling for long periods. This is really hard on the engine. If you need to idle more than a few minutes and don't need to power any battery-draining accessories, shut it off. Not only will you save gas, but the emissions while idling are the worst.

As for buying a factory replacement crank sensor, listen to the man. I just went through this with my Grand Cherokee. It was dead and after days of troubleshooting we finally traced it to the CKS. Bought one from Autozone and got the Jeep running, but it was missing and farting every 30 seconds. Went and got one from the Jeep dealer after reading about sub-par aftermarket parts and the Jeep has been running great ever since. The price difference was only about $35, but the cost in aggravation from the cheapo part was way more than that.

 

i can't say really, i haven't gotten around to looking it up. i know it shuts off the fuel pump when it activates or goes bad. it may have something to do with an accident. my thunderbird had an inertia switch that would trip if you got in an accident and when tripped it would cut off the fuel pump so the engine would die soon after impact.

i've been told that you burn the same amount of gas starting a vehicle as you do when you let it idle for one minute. so if it is going to idle for more than a minute it is better to shut it off.

 

Everything in the ignition and fuel system electrically is fed through the ASD relay and, when they go bad, you get a bad idle, to just stalls out and various other sporadic issues. Mine would die out once in a while. Mainly idling but, did have it happen while in commute and, it scared the crap out of me as I lost my brakes etc and had no idea what the hell was going on.

I dug into it and found the ASD to be the culprit.

By the way, white smoke is not motor oil smoke. Oil is usually blue and white is fuel. That is fuel smoke. Same thing happens when using Seafoam- white smoke is produced.

Here's how to troubleshoot:

1. It may be an IAC issue but, that would not cause white smoke so, we can rule that out.

2. It may be an ignition issue - if it was ignition related- a error code would be generated so, we can rule that out. Plus, it would miss and run rough- not create white smoke.

3. It may be a stuck fuel injector where the pintle is remaining open thus flooding the chamber/s with fuel (this is one possibility as this fault does not trigger an OBD code)

4. It may be an electrical issue with the EFI system- not firing the injectors at the correct time- but, the truck would run really rough to not at all plus, you would not get white smoke.

5. It could be a faulty fuel pump regulator: that would most certainly cause the truck to just die in both idle and running mode. But, once again, it would not cause white smoke unless: the pressure is way too high. This would cause way too much fuel to enter the chamber. This would create a super rich fuel mixture essentially flooding the motor and causing it to stall out.

If you had to hold the throttle open- this is a good indication that it's not getting air and flooded out / stalled. Check your fuel pressure while running it for a while. Any variation or sudden drops or increase in fuel pressure- pump is on it's way out. Check manual for specs for that for your truck. You may be getting too much pressure at the EFI stage thus causing it to stall.

Is your air filter clean? Clogged filter will starve the motor of air and cause the same thing to happen.

Do you ever have difficulty in starting it? like- having to hold / depress throttle to keep plates open?

Does it ever run rough when idling?

* indicates starved of air- clogged filter, stuck IAC= lack of air at idle which would stall it at idle.

 

that's a good bit of info.
you can check to see if an injector is stuck with a mechanics stethoscope. i got one at harbor freight for 3$ the other day and that thing is pretty awesome. if an injector was sticking then it wouldn't have the same rhythmic "click click click" through the stethoscope as the other injectors.
you can also check injectors with a multimeter, but i'm not exactly sure what the resistance/voltage is supposed to be.

 

12 ohms resistance, +/- 1.2 ohms

Out of spec injectors should be replaced, Mancini Racing was selling stock injectors insanely low a month ago.

 

thanks for the help guys, although it happend once last night, after i got pulled over, and given a ticket, then happend this mornin after i had to drive my mom to work cause her car wouldnt start, then it happend again on the way to walmart to buy a battery for her car. I did figure out that the pump or relay was bad last night, then this morning when it happend i went right to the relay, pulled it out, then i noticed where it had been losing contact and the prongs just looked worn out, so i went to advance and bought a new relay, so we'll see if that fixed the problem. (which i hope it does, cause after this 108.00 ticket, i wont be able to get a fuek pump for quite some time. thank god i already ordered my sc3815 =]) as far as the smoke goes, its not really related, since it only does it when i let it idle for a while. and it did it before i bought seafoam and used it. though, i do know my plenum leaks because of the excess oil consumption. (1 quart every other week.)

 

Watch out with injectors. Especially cheap replacements. Those are not matched and don't posses even atomization across the set. Sometimes they are rebuilds. That's why they are cheap. Plus, what lbs/hr at what level may not be close to what they are rated at.

Depending on the HP. mods, and engine size, the flow rate is supposed to be spec'd out to match.

I just experienced this with Accel injectors. Mine were clogged, however, I did test them. They are not that bad but, they don't atomize well enough and, I wouldn't recommend them as they don't spray nor flow evenly from one to the next thus causing an imbalance in fuel being delivered to the chambers thus creating an either rich or lean mix at the burn stage.

When the sensor and computer compensate for this out of balance condition, it makes the situation worse by inducing more fuel or less fuel across the remaining chambers in order to obtain an 02 sensor reading that is within the limits.

 

what was the ticket for?

are you sure its your plenum and not the rear main seal? a quart every other week is insane.

 

ya, because there is no external oil leaks, and the ticket was for 64 in a 55

===edit===

checked the cap and rotor, of course both were pretty bad, so i replaced them today, and now she starts up no problem.

heres a pic of the cap, its kinda blurry though, but you can tell its bad.

http://i26.tinypic.com/33tjtxd.jpg