Starting Issue
#22
Got EGR. Not rough idle or poor running condition. It idles smooth and usually starts quick. The past two times it died was within 5 minutes after start and coasting down a hill at maybe 40 mph. It shuts off smooth like someone turned the key. There's no bucking or sputtering or anything rough. This last time it started right back up like nothin. I think this actually happened once about a year ago coming off a trail but at the time I had thought I had dropped the RPMs too low in 4L as I was coasting down a hill at maybe 5 mph. It took a few minutes after that to get it started back up and never did it again until recently.
But, again, the fuel gauge is still pegged at F so, that's at least something not right. That's why I lean more towards it as opposed to a sensor.
But, again, the fuel gauge is still pegged at F so, that's at least something not right. That's why I lean more towards it as opposed to a sensor.
right after i replied to your pm, i remembered that a mechanic friend of mine told me to watch the tach while cranking it, after it shuts off, he said if theres no reading, to check into the crank, its a simple test, but its worth looking into, and could save you money.
#23
That's a good idea. I'll see if it shows anything when it happens again.
Can someone comment on this thought? I am thinking that if there is a fault on either sensor that power would still be sent to the fuel pump. The computer would just not fire the injectors or the coil. So the pump should still engage. That's what I'm guessing. So then it's a matter of just seeing if the fuel pump will engage or not the next time it happens. If not, then it's definitely the pump. Thoughts on that reasoning?
Can someone comment on this thought? I am thinking that if there is a fault on either sensor that power would still be sent to the fuel pump. The computer would just not fire the injectors or the coil. So the pump should still engage. That's what I'm guessing. So then it's a matter of just seeing if the fuel pump will engage or not the next time it happens. If not, then it's definitely the pump. Thoughts on that reasoning?
#24
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Near NY for another contract
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That's a good idea. I'll see if it shows anything when it happens again.
Can someone comment on this thought? I am thinking that if there is a fault on either sensor that power would still be sent to the fuel pump. The computer would just not fire the injectors or the coil. So the pump should still engage. That's what I'm guessing. So then it's a matter of just seeing if the fuel pump will engage or not the next time it happens. If not, then it's definitely the pump. Thoughts on that reasoning?
Can someone comment on this thought? I am thinking that if there is a fault on either sensor that power would still be sent to the fuel pump. The computer would just not fire the injectors or the coil. So the pump should still engage. That's what I'm guessing. So then it's a matter of just seeing if the fuel pump will engage or not the next time it happens. If not, then it's definitely the pump. Thoughts on that reasoning?
#26
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Near NY for another contract
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The past few times I've driven it I've just turned the key to On before starting to see if the pump engages. I've had, I think, twice now where it did not. I turn the key off, turn it to On again, I hear it, then crank to start and it starts fine. That doesn't give me much confidence that the problem is fixed.
Now, to really troubleshoot this so your not guessing as to what it is:
- take the connector off the pump and using a meter, have someone measure the voltage while turning the key to <ON>.
- Repeat the test a min of five times or more to obtain some statistics.
- If during any one cycle power is not present, we know it's NOT getting power consistently ok, and, at that point, your going to put the connector back on and now check your ASD relay first.
-If that ASD fails: R&R. If it PASSES: your going to be looking at your sensors
That's how to test it down to component level to isolate the root cause.
If it's one of your sensors, I have ten bucks on the CKPS. You can also measure that for output just be cranking the engine while reading the output with a DMM.
-crank the engine five times and measure the voltage coming off the sensor. If during any one of the cycles there's no output we know it's your CKPS: R&R
Repeat the same test for the cam / advanced pickup sensor as well.
CM