Charging problem
#31
Battery or alternator voltage is to low???But wont go up
I installed a new intake manifold and after the install the check gauges light comes on and the battery or alternator voltage is to low.
It stays at a constant 10 volts, it wont go up or down so im not sure what the problem is.
Is it part of having new hughes FI intake manifold or should it stay the same, I say stay the same but i dunno
Why would it do this and has it ever happened to you
(Battery is a optima red top and 6 months old, alternator is a stock replacement put in same time as battery)
It stays at a constant 10 volts, it wont go up or down so im not sure what the problem is.
Is it part of having new hughes FI intake manifold or should it stay the same, I say stay the same but i dunno
Why would it do this and has it ever happened to you
(Battery is a optima red top and 6 months old, alternator is a stock replacement put in same time as battery)
#32
#33
Test the voltage at the battery with engine off. It should read around 12 volts depending on battery condition. Now, start the engine and check battery voltage again. It should read 13-15 volts if the alternator is charging.
If you do not read 13-15 volts check the alternator output. Connect volt meter red lead to large terminal on alternator B+ and black lead to ground. With engine running you should see the charging voltage listed above.
If alternator is charging but battery is not getting charged, check the fuses in the PDC.
If you do not read 13-15 volts check the alternator output. Connect volt meter red lead to large terminal on alternator B+ and black lead to ground. With engine running you should see the charging voltage listed above.
If alternator is charging but battery is not getting charged, check the fuses in the PDC.
#34
#35
Voltage regulation is unfortunately controlled through the ECM - So if you determine that the ALT is putting out voltage but its not reaching the BATT, check this
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...g-problem.html
BTW, a properly charged BATT should read 12v with engine off, around 14v running.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...g-problem.html
BTW, a properly charged BATT should read 12v with engine off, around 14v running.
#36
Thanks xray99!!
I think that it is an Borg Warner R296 Voltage Regulator:
http://www.amazon.com/Borg-Warner-R2...9453502&sr=8-3
I will wait for your more detailled information... And if you could, some wiring diagram...
1000 Thanks again xray99!!
I think that it is an Borg Warner R296 Voltage Regulator:
http://www.amazon.com/Borg-Warner-R2...9453502&sr=8-3
I will wait for your more detailled information... And if you could, some wiring diagram...
1000 Thanks again xray99!!
#37
Did I just supply a link to the same thread ?
Sheesh, must be getting mixed up here.
Anyhow I'll post more detailed info as I get it, first step would be to see if your ALTS also have green n blue wires coming off the back.
That BW is it, not sure if the extra $20 is worth it or not, to get the name brand.
Sheesh, must be getting mixed up here.
Anyhow I'll post more detailed info as I get it, first step would be to see if your ALTS also have green n blue wires coming off the back.
That BW is it, not sure if the extra $20 is worth it or not, to get the name brand.
Last edited by xray99; 11-28-2009 at 09:42 PM.
#38
Did I just supply a link to the same thread ?
Sheesh, must be getting mixed up here.
Anyhow I'll post more detailed info as I get it, first step would be to see if your ALTS also have green n blue wires coming off the back.
That BW is it, not sure if the extra $20 is worth it or not, to get the name brand.
Sheesh, must be getting mixed up here.
Anyhow I'll post more detailed info as I get it, first step would be to see if your ALTS also have green n blue wires coming off the back.
That BW is it, not sure if the extra $20 is worth it or not, to get the name brand.
#39
#40