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Ball Joint Testing and Replacement

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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:16 AM
  #1  
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aggiejet
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Default Ball Joint Testing and Replacement

98 Ram 1500 2WD. 101k miles. (Am I a 2nd gen guy?)

I read the factory manual pdf download this morning and it gave guidance in testing the lower ball joint using a dial indicator.

(6) Reposition the pry bar under the upper suspension
arm and on top of the frame rail. Pry up on the
upper suspension arm and record the dial indicator
reading.
(7) If the travel exceeds 0.8 mm (0.030 in.) replace
the suspension arm.

The guidance is to replace the SUSPENSION ARM. They mean the lower ball joint, don't they? But there is no mention or direction on how to do that.

Since I don't have a dial indicator, what is a good means for testing ball joints?

If I decide to replace all the ball joints, (which I am inclined to do) do you have to pull off the steering knuckle, which means removing the control arms? (If I am reading my Haynes manual correctly, it implies that)
Can you use a ball joint removal tool with the steering knuckle in place and avoid all that.

Lastly, I looked in the DIY section and didn't see anything in there. I will try to capture my project and post it if it hasn't already been done.

Thanks


 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:41 AM
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I just did my ball joints (all 4), but I have a 2WD (so no steering knuckle). It wasn't a PITA, but it did take several hours. While you are doing the ball joints, go ahead and...

1. replace the control arm bushings while you are at it
2. if you want to level the front end, now is the time
3. replace tie-rod ends (if needed)
4. replace brake rotors, pads (if needed)
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:42 AM
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Just raise the vehicle and grab the tire at 6 and 12 oclock, push the top and pull the bottom and pull the top and push the bottom. If you feel any play , have someone or you look behind the wheel at the BJ's and see if they move (could be bearing play). As far as replacing them, they probably have rivets you will need to cut off the old ones. And the steering knuckle has to come off, you may not have to remove the tie rods, but for clearance issues you might have to.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 11:51 AM
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95RAM360
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i bought the ball joints, and brought my truck to a mechanic(i dont have a press) and it cost me 80 bucks to get my uppers and lowers put in, so its was like 180 total
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 12:33 PM
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i gusse i wasnt good enough ofr the diy
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...placement.html

my bj would pop when turning....i ended up putin and pipe under the wheel and got it to pop once and never again,, is i took off the wheel took one of my smaller pry bar and put in in the the rotor were the cooler fin were and pry back and front and put my hand on the lower bj and could feel it was bad

and my truck only has like 45,000 at the time
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 12:49 PM
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Sorry, I forgot about your DIY . Mine is 4wd so I didn't think to look. Very nice job btw.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 01:45 PM
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I looked at my front end this morning after posting. It appears to me that you could undo the tie rod, remove brake caliper, and then unscrew the slotted nut on both the top and bottom ball joint and the steering knuckle would drop down and you could pull it off. That would expose the two ball joints while the lower and uppper control arms are still in place. Then with a ball joint remover/installer (like a jaw puller) that I can get an Advantage Auto, just remove and replace the ball joints. Way too easy.

Also I noted a snap ring seems to be in place on the lower ball joint to hold it in place. I mention this to identify my front end assemblage details, as I am beginning to understand that all trucks are not created equal.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2009 | 02:07 PM
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It's really not that hard on a 2wd.
 
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