You can see Purpl is debadged in my sig. Your truck would look better also if you got all the old moulding off and put the newer '98-01 style moulding on only the door. Then you would still have the protection of the rubber but a little more stylish.

 

i dont like the newer style molding...dont know why...just dont like it. if i remove what i have, i wont put anything back in its place.

 

actually i did...i posted the dynographs on one of my other threads. the dyno results are corrected rear wheel power the flywheel numbers are guesstimated. i did a sort of base dyno before i did my topend rebuild, then done another dyno after that. since i have bought my jeep my dodge has turned into a play toy. i am 30yo and doing pretty good(id like to think...lol) financially so i just wanted to play with my truck. i bought the truck brand new(had to put it in my gpas name) and have had it ever since.

i will definately check out your pics and you arent cluttering this thread...i go with the flow.

 

A bit OT but word is there's a new "Ram" logo coming out shortly. They unveiled the new Chrysler badge yesterday.

 

it will probably be all contemporary...

 

This is still my favorite Dodge logo:

 

Thanks for pointing out the dyno thread...which I found 257 hp.

However...using my old Hot Rod calculator from days of yore...which calculates horespower based on trap speed and vehicle weight...I came up with a different figure.

HP = Weight X (velocity/234) 3

Figuring your curb weight at 4200 lbs and using your 86.14 mph trap speed we get a horsepower rating of 209 hp.
BTW, I ran your dyno ratings and they check out. But a dyno run is more controled than a track.
Here's an online caculator I used...

BTW, I'm not putting you down...15.8s out of a 4000lb + vehicle with the shape of a brick is nothing to sneeze at. And better yet, they are consistent for your gearing and traction.

Let me give a different example....
For instance, we have a 3600 lb street bracket car. Through the traps it runs consistent 14.3's @ 102 mph This is on a treated set of street tires and closed exhaust.
Using its weight 3600 lbs and plugging in the trap speed, we get a horsepower rating of 298. NOW, here's where the fun begins... Plugging the weight in with the ET, we get a HP rating of only 243.
So the math is bad right....not really. Heres the catch...If we plug in 13.5 seconds on the ET side and use the same curb weight...we get a hp rating of 298.
What this really means is that our car is too "slow" Based on the weight and trap speed, it should be in the 13s...meaning lower gears, slicks, and mods that help improve traction and lower the et.
BTW, the new owne change those things and put the car in the low 13s. C'est la Vieve'!

Now I've jacked your thread....sorry.

http://www.ajdesigner.com/phphorsepo...horsepower.php

 

where did you get the 4200lb figure?

 

Well...that was a guess...but then according to motor trend...your truck weighs 1833kg/4032 lbs, so with a driver (again a guess) full tank of gas, and any misc stuff under the seat or in the bed 4200 is within a few lbs

You've probably figured out you can use these equations to determine how much horsepower you will need (or how much weight to remove) to get your vehicle to certain et.

 

i appreciate the modesty...lol

i weigh almost 300lbs...im big boned...lol