I would have to see what that looks like. Some use a metal gasket due to shearing properties. It's a compression gasket. But, there's also core metal frames that are intended to be used with RTV / Silicone.

What happens here is, the user must place the RTV on the metal gasket frame. Then, you let is set up for three minutes. After that time has elapsed, it must be immediately assembled and torqued to spec. Then it must dry for 24 hours to full cure schedule.

If it's rushed into service when not fully cured, it will fail.

Now, if your gasket is of frame type, it will have perforated holes all the way around. This is to provide a place for the RTV medium to really secure to.

The OEM gaskets (end seal and front seal) were of this type. They used a frame, then dispense the sealant on both sides of the frame. In the factory, they install it without skinning over. OEM spec is three minutes from dispensing to torquing.

That's fine when using robotic assembly equipment but impossible out in the garage environment.

Now, in your case, you can actually almost do that on the bench and meet that schedule because you may be talking about the plenum gasket kit which, you can do this on the bench and not in the vehicle.

Let me know which type of frame you have- solid, or, perforated. Be interested in finding out which one they are using for this application.

Chris M

 

Yup, happened to me.

 

I used the Felpro gaskets and didnt use any sealer on either end and have no leaks or problems

 

i'm thinking i'll get a felpro gasket set and not use this metal one.

 

I can't tell from the photo clearly but, it looks as though that is a frame w/o perforations that is stamped. Stamped frames are cheaper to make thus the reason they included that in the kits.

Those are to be used in the same manner as was described earlier. If done correctly, it will not tear or shear. I would (for the sake of ease) go and see if Fel has the steel core with rubber. If so, use that. It's easier to work with.

Since both sides of the stamped gasket has to receive sealant, it gets messy and, there's a good chance that one area will become compromised during handling.

 

well i got to tell you...i got the truck going this morning, and WOW! i changed my dist. cap rotor, and there was white powder all through the old one. changed that. spark plugs were black, changed those, have a new ported polished manifold (as you know) with Hughes plate and kegger mod.

The difference is MAJOR. i just did a 168 mile round trip today for thanksgiving, that only used a little more than a quarter of a tank. I can Feel the motor running way more cleaner. way more pick up, Oil pressure stays at 50+ PsI at all times. my tempreture is so hot i cant have it all the way on red.

So all in all the first stage of my rebuild has been a complete sucess. what i have done so far only took me a matter of 10 hours this time to get everthing done.

total for all parts in first stage- around $450

Next Step- either replace whole front end, or header back exhaust....hmmmm

 

well i think my plenum gasket has been changed before.
95ram360, did you have a thin metal gasket on your intake or the one you just got?

i did, and i can see where it was leaking.

 

when i replaced it the first time it was a gasket with metal in the middle (stock gasket) and the hughes doesnt have metal in it, its just a regualr gasket. but you guys have me scared since i didnt use any sealant (directions clearly said dont use any gasket maker/sealant) im gunna check it once a week, my manifold has absolutly no oil or carbon, so ill notice quick if it leaks. and ill let you guys know...but i follow torque specs and everything...i highly doubt it'll leak though.

Sheriff, just so you know, it only cost me 40 bucks to get my manifold to look like new (ported polished, and sandblasted) and i can see a hugh significant difference with the way my truck breathes

 

cmckenna, i'm a little confused between your post and the haynes manual.

from what i can make of the sealant locations it is:
-coat the heads and the end seal locations with gasgacinch (i'm going to get some tomorrow).
-rtv the end seal to head gasket location (between the each end of the seal and the head).
-place the front and rear seals in their place then roll a deep well socket over them to ensure a good seal against the gasgacinch.
-rtv the end seal to the head gasket locations again (to get it on top as well as below the seal)
-rtv around the water ports.
-place the head gaskets where they go.
-on the intake, coat the intake to the heads gasket surface along with the end seal gasket surface with gasgasinch.
-rtv the water ports on the intake.
then install and torque.

if this is wrong then please correct me.
like i said, i'm confused.
why the rtv around the water ports instead of just gasgacinch?
and does the rtv go on top of the gasgacinch between the carbon gasket and the head along with between the carbon gasket and the intake?

 

You must place Gasgacinch around 100% and then, over that, around the H20 ports, you must run RTV sealant. This is also per Haynes and OEM manufacturing process / procedures.

I use Gasgacinch as a base for all my seals (minus the oil pan) and, as long as you place black, hi temp RTV / silicone around all water ports, it will never fail. The only reason I don't like gasgacinch for the oil pan is the fact that it is not high tack and does not hold / secure the gasket to the engine block as good as Permatex Hi Tack sealant. That's the only application I recommend using Permatex over gasgacinch by the way.

Anyway, this is the standard method to use RTV around all water passages. The reason why is simple: due to the fact that the heads, the intake surface and, gasket interface, it may not be planar. If there's a gap, or any anomalies in any one of the mating surfaces, that tolerance stack up may be of greater distance / gap than what Gasgacinch can tolerate.

So, if we have 5 mils at the head, then say, another two mils at the gasket of compliance and possibly a non- coplanar alignment issue at the intake to gasket interface, the chance for a leak increase.

You see, Gasgacinch is designed to fill in small defects and scratches as well as dips here and there but, it's also very thin once the solvent evaporates thus not being well suited for stack up tolerances and fit issues. These fit issues can be had with older engines with lots of miles on them. Things sometimes don't fit like they once did and, even at the factory when new, RTV was used around all water passages, water pump, front and rear ends seals etc. You need a material that is compliant at those areas and, RTV wraps around the intake gaskets and completely envelopes that junction thus making a complete seal, 360º around everything.

However, I loathe RTV / Silicone sealants with a passion and, I never use nor recommend them for general use to make gaskets or to be used in a liberal fashion. Used too much and in the wrong environment, they tend to break down and fail.

I have read the above post and, you are correct and have a full understanding of how to apply the sealants correctly. If the surfaces are truly clean, and are prepared well enough, I can assure you that it will not leak.

Over the years, I have tried varying mediums and methods and, the only method that has yet to fail is the above method. Again, rule of thumb is to never use RTV as a primary sealant and, if and when it is used, use vary sparingly such as the 4- corner (lifter valley to head) interface and around the water ports- that's it. If you have ever used it where, it was the gasket, it's a daunting task to clean that crap off.