Stubborn hub nut
#11
11-22-2009, 11:17 AM
1500?
2500?
3500?
I'm too lazy to look in any of you're other posts to see what truck or year it is......
put it in you're sig.
FWIW the 1500's are torqued to somewhere around 160-180ft lbs
2500&3500s over 200. I can't remember exactly the #
I had PB soaking for a full day before working on my truck, But I agree with Sheriff, get something better. Four foot piece of 1 1/4 galvanized pipe on the end of the ratchet made short work of mine.
Passenger side is right hand thread.
I can't say about drivers side, but have heard some people say they are left hand on some model axles.
Easy enough to tell, there are threads that you can see under the castleated nut.
I put torques in this thread https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d60-specs.html
2500?
3500?
I'm too lazy to look in any of you're other posts to see what truck or year it is......
put it in you're sig.
FWIW the 1500's are torqued to somewhere around 160-180ft lbs
2500&3500s over 200. I can't remember exactly the #
I had PB soaking for a full day before working on my truck, But I agree with Sheriff, get something better. Four foot piece of 1 1/4 galvanized pipe on the end of the ratchet made short work of mine.
Passenger side is right hand thread.
I can't say about drivers side, but have heard some people say they are left hand on some model axles.
Easy enough to tell, there are threads that you can see under the castleated nut.
I put torques in this thread https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d60-specs.html
Last edited by VEETEN; 11-22-2009 at 11:48 AM. Reason: thread link
#12
11-22-2009, 11:17 AM
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#13
11-22-2009, 05:18 PM
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#14
11-22-2009, 07:25 PM
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#15
11-22-2009, 10:14 PM
You got it out but didn't get it to move?Is it out?
Last edited by VEETEN; 11-22-2009 at 10:17 PM.
#16
11-23-2009, 12:36 AM
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I coundnt move the nut what so ever i had my friend bring his baby torches over. and got nothing. so i did what anyone else would have done i pulled the axle and the hub out in one piece. the bearing was messed up and need to be replaced anyway so heating it wouldnt have hurt nothing. So i hammered the back of it and took it out that way. so now i have this whole big piece. haha
#17
11-23-2009, 10:46 AM
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after you get it back together you'll want to keep an eye on the end of the axle tube for differential fluid for a week or two.
taking it out all in one piece is a good way to knick the seal.
after replacing my u joints i had an axle seal leak and i know i didn't hit the seal, it just decided to give up after taking the axle out.
taking it out all in one piece is a good way to knick the seal.
after replacing my u joints i had an axle seal leak and i know i didn't hit the seal, it just decided to give up after taking the axle out.
#18
11-23-2009, 11:07 AM
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after you get it back together you'll want to keep an eye on the end of the axle tube for differential fluid for a week or two.
taking it out all in one piece is a good way to knick the seal.
after replacing my u joints i had an axle seal leak and i know i didn't hit the seal, it just decided to give up after taking the axle out.
taking it out all in one piece is a good way to knick the seal.
after replacing my u joints i had an axle seal leak and i know i didn't hit the seal, it just decided to give up after taking the axle out.
Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep an eye on it.