Transfer Case stuck to trans
#12
11-23-2009 | 01:20 AM
Rookie
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 80
Likes: 0
From: Reno, NV
I finally got it off. It was all corroded inside and at some point the drain hole plugged up. Here's what I ended up doing. At the studs located at the 6 o'clock position and 9 o'clock position (drivers side) the transmission case overlaps the studs. I took the mount nuts and flipped them over (washer side towards trans) and screwed them back on. Then I took 2 1/4 drive sockets and placed them between the nut and the transmission and started to unscrew the nuts. This worked to push the transfer case away from the transmission. At the 3 o'clock position, your unable to do this but part of the transfer case is exposed and I used a drift and hammer on this side. I wasn't able to get anything on the top, but working all 3 of these positions a little at a time and I was finally able to get it off. I don't know if it was ever off before I took it off, but I'll definately use anti-sieze when it goes back on. Hope this helps someone in the future and thanks for all the input.
. I wish you got the whole thing on video for all to see. 
#14
03-16-2015 | 08:57 PM
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I finally got it off. It was all corroded inside and at some point the drain hole plugged up. Here's what I ended up doing. At the studs located at the 6 o'clock position and 9 o'clock position (drivers side) the transmission case overlaps the studs. I took the mount nuts and flipped them over (washer side towards trans) and screwed them back on. Then I took 2 1/4 drive sockets and placed them between the nut and the transmission and started to unscrew the nuts. This worked to push the transfer case away from the transmission. At the 3 o'clock position, your unable to do this but part of the transfer case is exposed and I used a drift and hammer on this side. I wasn't able to get anything on the top, but working all 3 of these positions a little at a time and I was finally able to get it off. I don't know if it was ever off before I took it off, but I'll definately use anti-sieze when it goes back on. Hope this helps someone in the future and thanks for all the input.
This worked for me, i couldnt get mine off by hammering it and prying it but just following these istructins worked awesome.
#15
01-12-2018 | 04:23 PM
Professional
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
From: Lexington, SC
Thanks for the "trick". Got 2 more nuts to get off(on muffler side!) None of the 14mm tools I've tried on these last 2 nuts is really working for me. I slid the trans mount block piece back to get to the one at the bottom but its that theres hardly any way to get leverage on anything because of the tail pipe sitting there. And then, that top one has the bottom of the trucks cab ALL in the way of that one! Sooooo... sucks for me. Any ideas? Advice? At all? Thanks!
#16
01-14-2018 | 02:20 PM
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
I finally got it off. It was all corroded inside and at some point the drain hole plugged up. Here's what I ended up doing. At the studs located at the 6 o'clock position and 9 o'clock position (drivers side) the transmission case overlaps the studs. I took the mount nuts and flipped them over (washer side towards trans) and screwed them back on. Then I took 2 1/4 drive sockets and placed them between the nut and the transmission and started to unscrew the nuts. This worked to push the transfer case away from the transmission. At the 3 o'clock position, your unable to do this but part of the transfer case is exposed and I used a drift and hammer on this side. I wasn't able to get anything on the top, but working all 3 of these positions a little at a time and I was finally able to get it off. I don't know if it was ever off before I took it off, but I'll definately use anti-sieze when it goes back on. Hope this helps someone in the future and thanks for all the input.
#17
01-14-2018 | 05:55 PM
Administrator
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 82,822
Likes: 3,435
From: Clayton MI
The t-case has studs, with flange nuts to hold it to the trans. The idea is, take the nut off, turn it around, so the flange is facing out, then, use a socket as a spacer between the flange on the nut, and the front side of the adapter housing. Then, loosing the nut will push against the socket, which can't go anywhere, so, it will apply that force to separating the t-case, from the adapter housing. 
#18
12-15-2022 | 06:30 PM
Registered User
Joined: Dec 2022
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
I finally got it off. It was all corroded inside and at some point the drain hole plugged up. Here's what I ended up doing. At the studs located at the 6 o'clock position and 9 o'clock position (drivers side) the transmission case overlaps the studs. I took the mount nuts and flipped them over (washer side towards trans) and screwed them back on. Then I took 2 1/4 drive sockets and placed them between the nut and the transmission and started to unscrew the nuts. This worked to push the transfer case away from the transmission. At the 3 o'clock position, your unable to do this but part of the transfer case is exposed and I used a drift and hammer on this side. I wasn't able to get anything on the top, but working all 3 of these positions a little at a time and I was finally able to get it off. I don't know if it was ever off before I took it off, but I'll definately use anti-sieze when it goes back on. Hope this helps someone in the future and thanks for all the input.
I must add the tranny case was broke before I got under it in that one slot but I’ve beat it for an hr to even separate this far two days soaking in pb blaster trans has been in it for 8 years built 48re and 273
Last edited by roostercruisin; 12-15-2022 at 06:35 PM.
