Actually the proper procedure is flush the entire system because of contamination and the ABS system's sensitivity to it.
Since the calipers/wheel cylinders are the lowest points in the system, thats where items tend to collect.

Or...Perhaps its because I was taught at a very early age not to backflush liquids...LMAO

 

That makes no sense, so I will just smile and nod.

 

Well. The caliper would not go back in. I used both theories to no avail. The cap was off of the master cylinder, and I bled the line. I even had the line slightly open while trying to compress the cylinder. It would spurt a little more while I pushed/hammered, clamped, but wouldn't retract. Caliper must be toast. I then got everything back on and bled the system to get the air out of it. The fluid is toast. It is black. So, the entire system needs to be flushed, and the front calipers need to be replaced.

While having someone pump the brakes, I watched the master cylinder flexing under the pressure. That can't be good.

So...I put the old pads back on and have to come up with a plan to get things fixed, fast. I might even consider the Stealership, to have one stop shopping. I am only considering this because I have to have the rear back up lights issue diagnosed (not going on) and the 3rd brake light issue diagnosed (not going on) as well as the brake system fixed. I know that they could do it all in an afternoon...but I don't want to part with $500 dollars, or whatever they will charge me.

Any suggestions for a quick fix? I have family in town and can't afford to spend their visit out in the driveway. I might be divorced.

 

u can get a rebuilt caliper for 15 bucks a piece. and if u can bleed brake then u can flush the system. just open all the bleeders and keep putting new fluid in it untill new fluid comes out of the bleeders.

 

Thats the best plan. Change the calipers and flush the system, at least you have a holiday to do it on.

 

Where do you guys get rebuilt calipers?

 

Before you go dumping money on rebuilt calipers, start diagnosing the problem. Are you certain the flexible brake line isn't clogged, hence the issue with the caliper binding? I'd remove the caliper from the hose first and see what the story is.

Also, $15 for a rebuilt caliper? My life and the lives of others is worth more than that.

 

I get fluid flowing through the bleeder, so I am assuming that it isn't the hose.

 

I would disconnect the caliper and mount it in a vise and then using a C-Clamp with the old pad in place, attempt to push the piston back into position. When moving the piston back in the bore, it is important to use either a block of wood or the old pad so as not to knock the piston crooked. If this works, then put a piece of wood in the bore and use compressed air in the hose inlet. You don't want the piston shooting out of the bore and getting damaged. The piston should move freely, but if not then it would be wise to exchange it for either a new or refurbished unit.

 

i had a caliper get stuck once the bleeder is the easy st way