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Transmission fluid change

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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 12:56 AM
  #21  
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with the 46re and an oem pan you add 4 quarts then start checking/filling to get it right. but since you have a deeper pan then you should add 4 + however much more the deep pan holds over oem before you start checking. did you get the transmission filter extender to put it deeper in the pan?

the guy that rebuilt my transmission bypassed the stock cooler because he said that the lining on the inside of them will flake off and clog up the lines.
he put the b&m style cooler in its place after the one like yours didn't work out and the problem was solved.
he went on a short test drive after putting everything back together after the rebuild and his scan tool told him that the transmission was too hot (about 200ish).
i believe the reason is that with just the added cooler, the transmission fluid wasn't in the cooling fins long enough to actually cool it off before it was on its way back to the transmission.

but don't you still have the stock cooler connected? if that is how it is then you shouldn't have anything to worry about. you want to keep the temp at or a little below 176º.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 01:06 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Sheriff420
with the 46re and an oem pan you add 4 quarts then start checking/filling to get it right. but since you have a deeper pan then you should add 4 + however much more the deep pan holds over oem before you start checking. did you get the transmission filter extender to put it deeper in the pan?

the guy that rebuilt my transmission bypassed the stock cooler because he said that the lining on the inside of them will flake off and clog up the lines.
he put the b&m style cooler in its place after the one like yours didn't work out and the problem was solved.
he went on a short test drive after putting everything back together after the rebuild and his scan tool told him that the transmission was too hot (about 200ish).
i believe the reason is that with just the added cooler, the transmission fluid wasn't in the cooling fins long enough to actually cool it off before it was on its way back to the transmission.

but don't you still have the stock cooler connected? if that is how it is then you shouldn't have anything to worry about. you want to keep the temp at or a little below 176º.

Yes on the extender it came with the pan.


No on the stock cooler. I was gonna run with it and the new one. When I was working on the truck one day I noticed what looked like white powder all over the shock tower. When I looked i found that i had the stock cooler laying on the shock bolt. It had smashed in a bunch of the fins so I took it off. I had asked a couple people on here, well laramie at least if most people kept the stocker when adding an after market and he said most people ditch it. if I need one I have no problem buying another one and installing it. I just would like to know for sure before tomorrow when I try to get all this BS put back in
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 06:13 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Augiedoggy
isnt the pan and gasket the same on all 2nd gen years??.....I think we are splitting hairs here and either would be fine...
Ok, lets call it 12 then !

I did mine just last week, and 13 felt a bit weak, I had to resist the temptation to give em another turn.
I checked them all again, they all "clicked" at 13, so I left it at that.
When dealing with low torque specs & gaskets like this, a couple ft lbs either way can indeed make a difference - If they would have meant 11 or 15, they would have said so.
Too lose, your gonna get drips.
Too tight, you'll end up blowing out the gasket.
 

Last edited by xray99; Dec 4, 2009 at 06:16 AM.
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 06:44 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by xray99
Ok, lets call it 12 then !

I did mine just last week, and 13 felt a bit weak, I had to resist the temptation to give em another turn.
I checked them all again, they all "clicked" at 13, so I left it at that.
When dealing with low torque specs & gaskets like this, a couple ft lbs either way can indeed make a difference - If they would have meant 11 or 15, they would have said so.
Too lose, your gonna get drips.
Too tight, you'll end up blowing out the gasket.
Maybe when you get the Mopar gasket at your dealer, go and ask a tech what the torque is.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 09:30 AM
  #25  
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Thanks for all the info guys...
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 11:15 AM
  #26  
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How do you know your Torque wrench is calibrated perfect.That's why I say don't overdo it,you can tighten if to loose,if to tight you have to start over.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 02:46 PM
  #27  
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bluebeast, if the cooler you have is going to be your only cooler then i would consider a b&m to run with it or just to replace it. mine is like a b&m and my transmission hangs around 160º-170º

here is b&m http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Uni...BTU-11x8x1-1-2

and here is mine


and as far as the torque goes, there is no question about it. splitfire has a 2001. the 2001 factory service manual says that for a 46re transmissions pan the torque is 13 ft-lbs.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 03:02 PM
  #28  
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I dont mean to theradjack,
but While on the subject

Does the factory towing package add a trans cooler (between radiator and a/c) or does it come stock?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 03:18 PM
  #29  
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Noob question, what does a deeper pan do besides give you more fluid capacity?
 
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Old Dec 4, 2009 | 03:21 PM
  #30  
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so beings I would be running 2 I could go with a lower BTU cooler then right? I don't wanna spend 80 bucks if I don't have too. I could go with a little bit cheaper one
 
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