OT

i love the sig. dodgeram07

 

I noticed that too, and thats the problem with these.
Unless stored and handled very carefully, the beams will always get bent out of shape, rendering them all but useless.
Too, they can be a major pain, especially when working on your back, reaching in a tight spot.
Its not always possible to keep it right over your face so you can see the little scale, whereas the click style you don't need to look at anything.

My clicker is nice, I like it ,, But the instructions say "it is the users responsibility to make sure this tool is correctly calibrated", but has no instructions on how to calibrate it.

 

Yeah any ideas on how to do that?

 

One way to do it, which would require a beam type wrench, would be to rig up some sockets/adapters in order to connect the two.
You'd place the beam wrench handle in a vice, then start torquing with the clicker, keeping an eye on the scale of the typically more accurate beam wrench as the clicker clicks.

How to actually recalibrate it if a problem is discovered is another question, of course you could just make up a chart, and compensate for any inaccuracy by adding of subtracting from the specs ,, But that seems a bit unworkable in the long run.

A quick search of google yielded many ideas, including the one above.
They don't seem very convenient, most relying on measures, weights and mathematical formulas to determine accuracy.
They do have electronic bench torque testers, but are way out of reach for most DIY guys, at over $2,000.
http://tinyurl.com/yza335q

This one looks pretty cool, and probably less pricey, but can't find any price info
http://www.norbar.com/Portals/0/Norb...ue/Pg65-67.pdf

Too, even if you had one, you'd then have to find out how to recalibrate the tool yourself.

 

Torque wrench was fine tested it on a bench clamp, not sure if it accurate.
Flaked fake epoxy from years of wrenching with sport bikes.

Thanks. I clean it out with a wire and dremel brush. It was good enough for me. Ya, I never wrenched on cars and trucks, but not at all that different from sport bikes. I would say much easier, I know... kind of weird. It felt real good working with big parts compared to motorcycles.

It took me about the same time as you did. But now that I know how everything goes, probably a lot less if I had to do it again.

I been trying to find them around town but no one had em, certainly gonna be one of my tool collection in the near future. Thanks

For me I remove both. Like desertdog56 and 95ram360 said. My A/C was flipped over to the side and my alternator was on top of my passenger side valve cover both removed from the accessory rack. I didn't disconnect ether one of them. Your gonna have to remove the accessory rack to get to the by-pass hose and one of the thermostat housing bolts. If your feeling the same way I felt, don't worry, It was real easy. Follow and search here on the forum.

I had a OBD II scanner to reset my ECU, but I think it was already reseted when I had the battery cables remove.

Thanks, I wish you the best.

 

Some other misc. pics.

I used a vac. to clean the fallen debries, I should of vac. the in-betweens of the keg and valve covers.

Injectors.

yellow clip to the fuel line and rail.

keg with the by-pass hose still atatch and cut in half.

underside.

I am a little Asian redneck so I had to use a step ladder. Hey, at least the ladder was made in Taiwan.