and dont for get the snap ring that holds the clutches to gether when that thing say fu and breaks at 107,000 miles u get to do a since less rebuild

 

problem is the check valve in the radiators.. they get cloged/ stuck and the trans will burn up.

on a side note my 1994 ram 4x4 with 208,000 miles is getting the tranny worked. keep your junk maintained and it'll last.

 

on check valve, on my '00 2500 4x4, gas, I thought it had an external cooler, same problem?

getting ready to replace/rebuild?? trans, I plan on by passing the radiator cooler (if it uses one) and putting an external only cooler in front of radiator.

*Is the check valve needed? for anti drain back or something else?

 

I don't think anyone has mentioned the fact that the tranny doesn't circulate fluid in park. So even if you let your truck warm up, if it's in park, the tranny is still stone cold when you put it in drive and take off.

Every time I get in my truck I immediately put it in neutral before I even turn the key. After I start the truck I let it sit there in neutral for at least 30 seconds before I put it in gear. I've never had a problem at 130xxx...yet

 

overs ram, if you are going to use just the external cooler then you need to make sure you get the right kind.
when mine was rebuilt, the tranny guy put on one like this:http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...S_555562345___ and he said that the transmission fluid was getting hotter then he was comfortable with on the test drive.

he replaced it with on like this: http://www.bmracing.com/SPECIALS/Aut...U-11x5-3-4x3-4 and now it is at the correct temperature.

the first one is fine for additional cooling when added to the stock cooler, but if you're going to bypass the stock cooler then it won't be enough.

 

Thanks, the second one is what the AZ rock crawler guys use and are much tougher and efficient

*I have full hydro steering on my jeep, and the "stacked" cooler is NOT recommended due to it aerating the fluid, I guess hydro steering fluid needs smoother flow (supposed to use the first one, the "tube & fin")

 

after you get your cooler on there, make sure its at or below 176º.

 

Thanks

after looking closer, I found my 3/4 v8 has a factory external cooler in addition to the in-radiator one between AC condenser and rad.

I'm debating on just bypassing the in-radiator cooler when I flush the lines during trans R & R, I wish I knew if the in-rad cooler really helps that much in cooling or is more for faster trans fluid warm up in cold weather (when used with external cooler), I just want it to run as cool as possible in the heat of Arizona when towing

Any good links or info on best budget trans temp gage, install?

Is the line that the Check Valve is in the the pressure line or return line?

Recommend a place for a remanufactured/rebuilt Torque Converter, (on a budget, quality, local or on line)?