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4.10 or 4.56 gears???? which ones?!?!?!

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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 11:56 AM
  #21  
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I run 4.56's (Yukons) with 35's, and it is so much better then 4.10's were. Overall, it is a good combo. However, often do I wish I had gone 4.88 instead. Gas mileage? Who cares. By time you have a lift and 35" tires, you have pretty much abandoned any ideals of getting good gas mileage anyway. I know I did, and if you haven't, then you need to come join us in reality. I get about 12 mpg with my setup now. If I was concerned about gas mileage, I sure the hell wouldn't be running 6" of lift and 35" mud tires. So if 4.88's dropped my mileage a little more, I probably wouldn't care at all. I'd enjoy the power from them far more then I would dislike the mileage.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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^very true.... but I do use mine on the highway and plan on using it for the trip to jamboree in the hills every year so I got to have a good balance of both power and efficiancy...with the looks and offroad capability I want..
 
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Old Dec 23, 2009 | 08:53 PM
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With an overdrive tranny, I see no issues at all highway driving (75 MPH) with 4.88's and 35's. Actually, I think it would be a dang good combo.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 10:35 AM
  #24  
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^ i agree with all of yall im not too worried about the mpg's bc like yall have said welcome to reality lol but if i got 35s then i would have to put another lift on my truck and idk if i can do that after all the other stuff im gonna do right now unless yall think a body lift would be a good idea bc my 33's already rub when i turn sharp so if i were to put a 3 inch body lift on my truck do yall think i would clear the 35s??
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 10:39 AM
  #25  
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That's what I have - 3" susp, 3" body. I have never rubbed on any part of the body, and I have flexed it a lot. My Toyos, which are labeled 12.50" wide are actaully more like 13.25" wide. Sometimes they will rub on the control arms at full turn, but that is due to the width, not the lift.
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 10:46 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by redneck86
ok thanks ill let yall know more after i get all this completed do yall know any good named brands i should go with??
I don't think there is a bad brand out there, it's ALL about the install! Don't skimp on the installation, go with a trusted shop that does ring/pinion and axle work on a regular basis.

I've heard first hand horror stories involving EVERY brand of gear out there, Yukons, Motives, Precisions, Genuines, Richmond, etc.
Also know many guys with all the above brands who have never had any issue and never have heard a hint of a whine...
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 12:12 PM
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mines just a 4" body lift with 35" tires...I do plan on adding 2 extra inches with the spacers and shackle lift..
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 02:37 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Augiedoggy
mines just a 4" body lift with 35" tires...I do plan on adding 2 extra inches with the spacers and shackle lift..

Do me a favor and hold a tape measure to your body lift puck and snap a picture of it. Until then, I wont be able to believe that you have a 4" body lift

Did you make it? Nobody sells over a 3".
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 06:02 PM
  #29  
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In O/D @ 60MPH with 35" tires:

4.10 = 1630 Rpm
4.56 = 1813 Rpm
4.88 = 1940 Rpm

And for a comparison for most of you 1/2 ton guys:

3.55 = 1411 Rpm
 
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Old Dec 24, 2009 | 06:10 PM
  #30  
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I would much rather cruise 310 Rpm higher and gain all that extra torque by going from 4.10 to 4.88s.

I would accually like to argue the point that you may get better fuel milage (going to 4.88s w/35" tires) just because the engine will be in its torque band at around 2000Rpm. If your cruising at 1600 or 1400 Rpm like some of the 1/2 ton guys, the engine will be struggling to maintain speed and needing to shift more to stay in the sweet spot. I think load on the engine has much more to do with fuel consumption than overall RPM... Discuss. lol
 
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