I'm looking at more than 500 to add 2" due to the cost off all the parts. I do my biz w top guns and I know you can talk them down on the price. I spent under 500 for my 3" lift from them. But I thinking a bd lift is they way to go now and save the money for gears.

 

every single lift block manufacturer who had installation pdf's online for their lift blocks all have a huge warning never to stack their blocks on top of factory blocks.....I cant believe it passes inspection?
The worse thing is our rams already have huge 3 1/2 factory blocks...adding blocks on top is dangerous for you and others around you on and offroad.... Its like drinking and driving....you might get away with it but it doesnt make it a good idea....especially that one time it catches up with you...they only make up to 5.5 blocks for our truck because its already been proven blocks any larger are not safe for our trucks...
and you have to drive like an old man to not see any spring wrap / wheel hop.....although the add a leafs would actually stiffen the rear suspension up and help lessen that....at the cost ride quality (I know you said it rode like stock on another thread but you also said you have no wheel hop)......I cant help but be skeptical here.

 

Has anybody ever eliminated the huge factory block with new springs? That may be something I want to try in the future.

 

A company named Atlas used to offer springs that would do that. There are probably others.

FYI 4 OP: the drag link on a ram with the "Y" steering is also your pass side tie rod.

 

My Rock Country lift has the factory block with another block ontop of it. So yea people do it.

 

I would have taken the rear block our but than my truck would have been low in the *** end. Its only a 2" block.

I don't gun it most of the time I just drive. I don't floor it I shift at 2k 80% of the time.

I put the aftermarket block under the factory block like the should be.

I don't feel any wheel hop. It should be a bounce/shacking.

Most of my driving is on the black top. I wheel threw felids and dont do much flexing.

I like the way my truck rides now with the add a leaf in it now. It feels much better and less bounce.

As far as inspection it has yet to go threw it. I had that done before I lifted it. My guy will point out anything wrong and DOES! He freaked when I came in with my dick cepeks on due to the backspacing.

And if lift blocks are do bad why do they sell them? Shouldn't they be banned for on road use?

 

Good point.

FYI...some states have banned stacked lift blocks. I'm suprised PA isn't one of them because they are pretty pricky out there.
People sell them because they are cheap, and while most companies recommend not stacking them and such, as long as people prefer cheap to correct, and its not illegal to sell them, they will be sold as long as there's a market.
And people, through ignorance or otherwise, will continue to missuse them until enough people either get hurt, or insurance companies start paying out large settlements. Then the polititcians, for the "good of all" will step in.

 

stacking blocks is illegal in some states....I would suggest replacing that block with a 2" shackle lift
and heres a link from four wheeler magazine..... as well as an insert from the article.(its the first of three pages in article)

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techartic...s/springs.html

(AGAIN OUR FACTORY BLOCKS ARE ALREADY 3 1/2")
Lift-Kit Alternatives



As with the spacers for coil springs, lift blocks for leaf springs are essentially spacers that fit between the spring pad and the spring. The jury's still out as to whether these are OK for the rear of a truck. A couple of automakers have equipped trucks with rear blocks from the factory over the years, and we haven't heard about many problems with them when installed properly. We do think that a lift block shouldn't be taller than 3 inches, and you should never stack them. They retain ride quality, but they can cause problems with wheelhop and driveline bind because of the increased leverage on the axle.
Most important of all: In your quest to find cheap ways to lift your truck, don't cut corners on safety. Never use front lift blocks. Front blocks are dangerous, period. The side-loads placed on a front axle during a turn can cause the blocks to eject from where they're supposed to be, and you'll have no control of where you stop. This is so important, we felt it needed to be repeated. Before fabricating any suspension component, make sure you know what you're getting into and any possible safety concerns before you start. Otherwise, you could have a mess on your hands.
Although we don't really recommend one, a traction lift is another way to gain lift while solving wheelhop problems at the same time. These work just like a lift block, but they extend forward to apply pressure to the spring during acceleration. Although this pressure may help wheelhop, it limits spring movement and therefore axle articulation. These are OK for boggers, but they would be a real problem for a rockcrawler.

 

Weather I decide to go higher or not right now is still in the air. But I do understand what you are saying about stacking blocks. It my not be the way to go but I don't think a 2" blocks is a massive deal like you are making it out to be. Now if I had a 3-4" block in there there would be reason to yell at me. (so to speak)

When I got my lift I got the add a leafs but just got around to installing them.

If I do go up I will be getting another leaf I should just buy another anyway but for right now its fine.

Anyone put long arms on?

 

its the stacking of two blocks that concerns me not really the height so much...they tend to loosen and work themselves out and the equals disaster... I was just saying you can buy the shackle lift for $60 and replace the blocks with it and be much better off..