puzzled now, but got codes
I missed one of your questions regarding fouled plugs: the answer is no, it would not foul plugs. That is caused by either oil being sucked into the intake ports (blown plenum) spent rings- (blow by). Those are the two most likely root causes for that issue.
I would definitely have a pro shop diagnose it first. Save you that cost on the sensor if it's not the problem. The DRB tool will tell them if it's bad or not.
Chris
I would definitely have a pro shop diagnose it first. Save you that cost on the sensor if it's not the problem. The DRB tool will tell them if it's bad or not.
Chris
True. I would also check the CAT and O2 sensor. There's two and, they are located just before the CAT and after the CAT.
Here's a quick test that won't cost you a cent. Remove the PCV and breather fliter out of the covers. Start the truck. Place both hands over the opening. If you feel vacuum at the PCV- your plenum is leaking thus, the oil at the plugs thus the fouling, thus possible misfires.
And, like you stated, the CAT and O2's should be checked out.
Here's a quick test that won't cost you a cent. Remove the PCV and breather fliter out of the covers. Start the truck. Place both hands over the opening. If you feel vacuum at the PCV- your plenum is leaking thus, the oil at the plugs thus the fouling, thus possible misfires.
And, like you stated, the CAT and O2's should be checked out.
True. I would also check the CAT and O2 sensor. There's two and, they are located just before the CAT and after the CAT.
Here's a quick test that won't cost you a cent. Remove the PCV and breather fliter out of the covers. Start the truck. Place both hands over the opening. If you feel vacuum at the PCV- your plenum is leaking thus, the oil at the plugs thus the fouling, thus possible misfires.
And, like you stated, the CAT and O2's should be checked out.
Here's a quick test that won't cost you a cent. Remove the PCV and breather fliter out of the covers. Start the truck. Place both hands over the opening. If you feel vacuum at the PCV- your plenum is leaking thus, the oil at the plugs thus the fouling, thus possible misfires.
And, like you stated, the CAT and O2's should be checked out.
CMCKENNA... Dude I wish you were my neighbor!!! Thanks for the info, heading out to get some new plugs, and wire separators. Unfortunately none of the stores here have any 8-9MM wires in stock so I will route the wires per the link you sent me... will update later tonight or tomorrow.
Again... Thanks for all the info, it is GREATLY appreciated!
Jordan
Again... Thanks for all the info, it is GREATLY appreciated!
Jordan
CMCKENNA... Dude I wish you were my neighbor!!! Thanks for the info, heading out to get some new plugs, and wire separators. Unfortunately none of the stores here have any 8-9MM wires in stock so I will route the wires per the link you sent me... will update later tonight or tomorrow.
Again... Thanks for all the info, it is GREATLY appreciated!
Jordan
Again... Thanks for all the info, it is GREATLY appreciated!
Jordan
CM
CMCKENNA... Dude I wish you were my neighbor!!! Thanks for the info, heading out to get some new plugs, and wire separators. Unfortunately none of the stores here have any 8-9MM wires in stock so I will route the wires per the link you sent me... will update later tonight or tomorrow.
Again... Thanks for all the info, it is GREATLY appreciated!
Jordan
Again... Thanks for all the info, it is GREATLY appreciated!
Jordan
Like I said, don't go with store bought wires as it's a waste of your money when talking 8-9MMs. If your not running super high compression-8MM is all you need or, if your running high heat applications- then use 10MMs but, for stock appliations, 8MM is all you need.
But, luckily for you, they don't have any in stock and, that's a good thing as all store brands that are out there minus Taylor and Magnecor (I prefer Magnecor over Taylor) are nothing but trouble. I have used MSD super-conductors and Moroso Ultra 40s and had nothing but problems.
In your case, your better off using higher resistance, carbon conductor wires at 7MM and wiring them per the TSB. It will work. The only concern is how long the wires will hold out before degrading at the conductor due to voltage breaking it down. But, at least those will not interfere EMI wise with the EFI system.
If and when you get the money, call Magnecor and ask them to make you a custom set. It's around 113 bucks a set but, it's well worth it as they will last a very long time and they work with EFI systems because they have superior EMI shielding properties as well as excellent dielectric properties due to using superior materials across the whole cable. Right down to the grade of silicon used in the jacket material.
Jordan,
Like I said, don't go with store bought wires as it's a waste of your money when talking 8-9MMs. If your not running super high compression-8MM is all you need or, if your running high heat applications- then use 10MMs but, for stock appliations, 8MM is all you need.
But, luckily for you, they don't have any in stock and, that's a good thing as all store brands that are out there minus Taylor and Magnecor (I prefer Magnecor over Taylor) are nothing but trouble. I have used MSD super-conductors and Moroso Ultra 40s and had nothing but problems.
In your case, your better off using higher resistance, carbon conductor wires at 7MM and wiring them per the TSB. It will work. The only concern is how long the wires will hold out before degrading at the conductor due to voltage breaking it down. But, at least those will not interfere EMI wise with the EFI system.
If and when you get the money, call Magnecor and ask them to make you a custom set. It's around 113 bucks a set but, it's well worth it as they will last a very long time and they work with EFI systems because they have superior EMI shielding properties as well as excellent dielectric properties due to using superior materials across the whole cable. Right down to the grade of silicon used in the jacket material.
Like I said, don't go with store bought wires as it's a waste of your money when talking 8-9MMs. If your not running super high compression-8MM is all you need or, if your running high heat applications- then use 10MMs but, for stock appliations, 8MM is all you need.
But, luckily for you, they don't have any in stock and, that's a good thing as all store brands that are out there minus Taylor and Magnecor (I prefer Magnecor over Taylor) are nothing but trouble. I have used MSD super-conductors and Moroso Ultra 40s and had nothing but problems.
In your case, your better off using higher resistance, carbon conductor wires at 7MM and wiring them per the TSB. It will work. The only concern is how long the wires will hold out before degrading at the conductor due to voltage breaking it down. But, at least those will not interfere EMI wise with the EFI system.
If and when you get the money, call Magnecor and ask them to make you a custom set. It's around 113 bucks a set but, it's well worth it as they will last a very long time and they work with EFI systems because they have superior EMI shielding properties as well as excellent dielectric properties due to using superior materials across the whole cable. Right down to the grade of silicon used in the jacket material.
Man the wiring diagram/directions you sent me seem to have worked like a charm, or it could have been the getting rid of the +4 plugs, or combo of both... either way, i aint about to play with it to find out.
After rewiring the layout of the plug wires, and changing plugs, i seafoamed it a bit, not too heavy, but did make a nice little smoke cloud :-)... I ran it to the gas station, then around the country block (about 20 miles). Never once misfired. I even took it up a hill in OD to load the engine good, and she just kept going. So far so good! Thanks again man, I appreciate ya!
Jordan
Man the wiring diagram/directions you sent me seem to have worked like a charm, or it could have been the getting rid of the +4 plugs, or combo of both... either way, i aint about to play with it to find out.
After rewiring the layout of the plug wires, and changing plugs, i seafoamed it a bit, not too heavy, but did make a nice little smoke cloud :-)... I ran it to the gas station, then around the country block (about 20 miles). Never once misfired. I even took it up a hill in OD to load the engine good, and she just kept going. So far so good! Thanks again man, I appreciate ya!
Jordan
After rewiring the layout of the plug wires, and changing plugs, i seafoamed it a bit, not too heavy, but did make a nice little smoke cloud :-)... I ran it to the gas station, then around the country block (about 20 miles). Never once misfired. I even took it up a hill in OD to load the engine good, and she just kept going. So far so good! Thanks again man, I appreciate ya!
Jordan
Update.... I drove my truck all weekend long, even out to the deer camp, and am having no problems with how it is running, thanks again for the fix info... But now I heard a popping sound while at deer camp, the u-joint on the driver side front is out, so will be replacing both of them, and repacking the hubs this week... Oh the joys of owning an older truck.



