Issue:
OK, had the issue with the ruff idle, and when I would try to get into the gas peddle, it would just stall. As well as being REAL hard to start when it is cold.

What I have done:
I changed Fuel Pump, the IAC (looked like OEM), and o2 sensor before the CAT, still a no go. Changing the o2 Sensor befor the CAT did change how it was idling, and finally the check engine light came on, so I can't wait to see what the codes are.

Question and thoughts:
I am thinking Coil now or maybe in need of some new plug wires. Hopefully it is that easy...
Do any of you have any other suggestions of what it might be (please don't say plenum, please don't say plenum haha)? I will post an update when I get home from work and get the Codes...

Thanks again y'all!!

 

When I got home from work, I went out to pull my codes, here is what I have

Code #1 is 12-No Distributor reference signal detected during engine cranking. Check the circuit between the distributor and PCM.

Code #2, 3, and 4 is code #43- Not sure why it pulled this code 3 times in a row but it did, Code #43 is- Open or short in number # coil circuit. Indicates that the ignition coil's peak primary circuit current is not achieved with the maximum dwell time.

Code #5 is Code 12- Battery had been disconnected.

So sounds like the distributor cap and/or rotor is bad, and the coil is bad... got them waiting for me Manana at O'Reilly's, as well as plugs and wires while I am at it. Getting Bosch +4, any one ever had issue with these plugs in a 5.9?

 

Hopefully its not the PCM itself

 

not sure on the codes but those are my favorite plugs.

 

OK simple solution... It was the dab gum Ignition Coil... Replaced it, cranked right up, but figured while I was at it, go ahead and finish the tune up... So why didn't ANYONE warn me about the NIGHTMARE of changing out the Distributor cap, I mean really, who the hell puts a distributor between the engine block and the firewall... SHEESH!!!!

After I changed the dist cap, rotor, plugs, wire, and coil, she runs great, idles great, and I can see a HUGE difference in power.

Thanks to those of you who pointed me in the right direction, though finally getting PCM codes after I changed the o2 sensor definitely helped!

 

OK, if you hadn't read my post, I had a problem with getting in the gas, and the truck wanting to die out, and hard starting... So... Here are the things I changes, Fuel Pump, Pre-Cat o2 Sensor, Didn't fix it. Then looked at the ignition coil, was fu-bared, so changed it, and went ahead and did the whole tune up (i.e. Plugs, wires, rotor, dist cap, oil change, etc...) Used Bosch Plat +4 plugs, Borg Warner Dist Cap, wires, rotor, and Coil...

Well everything was running GREAT, much improved power, ilde oh so smoothly, very responsive.... So I got the family and dog in the truck for the Christmas trip to Big D, bout 80 miles from home, truck is running great, then out of no where, the Check Engine light starts flashing on and off, and the truck start pinging and stuttering... Now this is the strange part, it is only doing this while in Overdrive, when I turn of overdrive, she runs fine. No over heating, no nothing, except for the pinging and stuttering in overdrive around 2K RMP.... Wow what is this????

Oh yeah... when I got to the house, I looked up my codes, was getting the same codes that were already on there (yea I forgot to clear them), which was a 45 and an 11 for Coil and Rotor, both brand new, and wire is brand new....

Cleared codes and heading to Autozone to have them read the codes for me on the machine to see if I missed something.

 

well that sucks. check that your plug wires are all seated good, and none of them are laying on the exhaust manifold. also there's a lot of discussion about routing them just so, and wrapping them in the wire loom to prevent crossfiring. also check your plugs to see if one of them is fouling.

i'd guess the skipping is related to lower rpm's and load. w/OD off you'd be running higher rpm's.

the coil is very easy to change. if nothing else obvious shows up, i'd take the coil back and tell them - it worked great for x days and then went bad and i need a warranty replacement.

 

I can look the codes up for you, dont have to go to autozone.
Do this:

In the truck turn the key on and off 3 times and look at the odometer. It will say P---- and that is your code.

 

This sounds like a classic issue: it's most likely your CPS or CKPS that is going south.

Symptoms include:

-hard starts / long crank times when cold.
-irregular idle / rough idle
-out of sync / timing issues
-stalling
-lagging
-bucking
-hesitation
-sputtering
-poor gas mileage

Check your CPS first.

Chris

 

I'm not sure if that works will all years... I know it does with 2001 but not sure with a 1997.