Try measuring your coil before condemning it. Also, you will want to measure the DC volts feeding it to verify it's receiving voltage. If that checks out, proceed to checking the wires that feed it for high resistance as well as the ground wire at the PCM connector. Remove the connector and run a resistance test to verify that the wire is fine. If that checks out, then check the coil driver circuit to see if it's pulsing the coil evenly without drop outs or constant on conditions.

If that checks out, proceed to checking your fuel pump while operational. Use a remote gage and place it in the cab and drive around or, if it's running badly at idle, check the pressure while it's running.

I have found plenty of times where, the fuel pump was the root cause for misfires due to low output due to either a failing regulator or pump motor as well as low voltage at the pump.

If and when power is below the intended operational voltage, the motor slows down thus dropping pressure thus causing misfires. It may be a high resistance connection at the pump or in the harness or in the Power Distribution Center. Verify the voltage at the pump.

Also, you may want to verify that you have 8VDC feeding your CPS. If that checks out, verify the voltage output. It should be at 5VDC. Do this by backprobing the connector. IF it drops out, or is <5VDC, it is shot and needs to be replaced. Please refer to the Haynes manual for procedure.

Same with the CKPS. Verify voltage to and from output. Use an analog style meter for this and not a digital meter.

 

The reason it pulled that code (43) three times is, there's three failure modes associated with code 43 and they are:

1. Peak primary coil current not achieved with max dwell time
2. Cylinder misfire
3. Problem in power module to logic module interface

In order to determine which faults you have, it is recommended to scan it. If it's No 3, then, it's a bigger issue with your PCM. The power module may have an air-cooled resistor which is used to sense the incoming air temperature. This information may be used to to control the duty cycle of the field current in the alternator. In this case, it is regulated at the PCM and not internal to the ALT. The voltage regulator resides in the PCM. The battery voltage is sensed by the logic module and there is an internal splice from the wire feeding the NVRAM (memory) to the active circuit (keep ON power circuit) which is fed to a voltage comparator. If you lose the feed to keep RAM information stored when the engine's off, you also lose battery voltage sensing. So, in order to determine which code it's throwing, you need to scan it with a good hand held scanner and pull the OBD codes. From those, you'll get a better idea of what's going on.

To answer your second question regarding Bosch plugs; I ran that same set twice not knowing and, I had nothing but problems with them. Use NGKs or Autolites and you'll be fine for a long time.

 

I went in today, ensured all the wires were routed properly, and the plastic heat guards on them. Everything was running great again, went to several locations, but on the way home, it started acting weird again when it was in low RPM in overdrive, and I got a check engine light. So I went home, did the 3 key turns, and low and behold I got a 43 error code, so I am going to Auto Zone so the can use their scanner to let me know which of the three I am getting.

CMCKENNA... What problems were you experiencing with the Bosch +4 Plugs... just curious.

 

Misfires and code 43. Same as you. Q: Is this on flat ground or uphill that you get code 43?

If uphill, we have an increase in loading on the engine thus greater chance of throwing that code 43 (representing misfire) Very common fault mode. Do you get one code 43 or two, or three code 43s in a row?

Let me tell you a nightmare that I went through with code 43. I got that ONLY when going up steep grades out here in So Cal to the high desert. On flat ground- no CEL. But, only under loading would it do this. Even WOT on flat ground- no CEL, no issues. It was my ignition wiring and a intermittent coil driver circuit.

IN order to really nail your issue down, we need to look at the 101s first as nine times out of ten; the root cause lies in the ignition wires and plugs. Let's start with the following flow down. Start with just the first five items; plugs, wires, cap and rotor and coil. I will bet your issue is rooted within these five areas.

-plugs: your running Bosch 4s-are problematic and are not intended to be installed in a Dodge truck. The platinum plating, the non-adjustable gap is an issue. They are well known to have issues under loading due to the Platinum. Platinum runs hotter and, as the load increases, so does the chance of a misfire due to premature detonation. Some report them to be fine for 3k to 5k miles and then degrading after that to the point of stumbling, rough idle and increased frequency of misfires.

-wires: I need to know which wire set your running. The ohm / ft is very important. If it's too low, we now have high probability for EMI interference with the EFI components. I am going to ask you what wires your running and how they are routed and what size (MM) they are. Not just being correct from the diz to the plug but, physically, how they are oriented to each other. There was a TSB put out by Dodge and, if your running most wires out there, it's still susceptible to induction crossfire. Here's the link:http://autorepair.about.com/cs/faqs/l/bl654h.htm

-rotor: look for bent, twisted to one side, loose at the pop rivet junction the blade contact.

-cap: check the main contact inside the cap. Make sure it is full length and that it's not cut off or worn down, cut etc. If so, you may have a mechanical issue (bearing wear) in the dist-shaft that is causing it to eat the cap / rotor.

-coil: remove and verify ohms across the primary and secondary. Also, it would be a good idea to have a dealer verify the output voltage under load conditions with an DRB III tool.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Advanced EFI systems

-distributor dwell circuit: dealer / DRB III tool to check this.

-ASD tests: / voltage supply test / power <ON> ohm / power <OFF> ohm

-Harness ohm test: non-operational test / harness disconnected from PCM / no load, no voltage / battery removed from circuit

-Fuel Pump relay test: same as ASD tests.

-PCM coil driver circuit test: operational verification test: verify pulse ON/OFF with LED light

-Fuel injector driver circuit test: DRB III tool

-Fuel injector supply voltage operational test: Noid light

-Fuel injector supply voltage non-operational test: DMM -verify voltage at harness.

-Fuel injector ohm test: measure ohms of each injector against OEM spec.

-Fuel injector flow test: this will have to be done professionally on machine.

-Fuel pump: Verify voltage to the pump

-Fuel pump: Verify fuel pump output at idle at both cold and hot to OEM specs.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> >>>>>>>>>>

Mechanical Test

-Compression test: verify cylinder compression

-Leakdown test: valves and rings- related issues

 

CMCKENNA- I bought Borg Warner wires, dist cap, and rotor. The wires are standard 7MM, but after reviewing some threads, i think going 8-9mm may be a better option, though 7mm were on it when I got them. How I have the wires routed is nothing like in the link you sent me, I routed them to "look more neat", and are all bundled together in wire clips going to the dist cap. and the Coil wires is routed in the with the same wire clip's.

Question though, just for my own sense of sanity... If I have insulated wires, how does the routing of the wire make a big difference? just curious.

Do you recommend that I take the +4's out and go with autolite?

Man I really appreciate your expertise here... this problem has had me absolutely baffled... I hope this fixes the issue with the 43 error code, and misfiring when the engine get to running temp... still not sure why it only does it at lower RMP though, is it due to the load on the engine?

 

There's your problem right there my friend. If your running standard- off the shelf wires- you can't do the race car wiring look. It simply will never work as intended due to induction cross-firing.

Take some time to wire it as shown. If you don't like that look, (I didn't) you can up your wires to a better brand.

I recommend using nothing but Magnecor ignition wires. Go with 8MMs. Use the correct size wire looms from Taylor and keep the distance of the wires apart one wire loom space. Do not let the boot cross at a 90 in an X-pattern. Keep the coil wire isolated away from EFI components as well as the NO 8 wire. That's all you need to do and, if your running headers, use a heat shield or some form of ignition wire sleeve such as Moroso's Ultra 40 Kevlar sleeve. If your not running headers, you simply do not have a need for it.

Now, you had asked a technical question. So, we are going to now cover this topic of why this happens.

We have insulated wires- yes, but, we must remember that we are talking 25K - 45K volts- that's super high voltage. Now, there's three things to know:

1. dielectric withstanding breakdown voltage of the material
2. Voltage
3. Corona

In order to measure the wires effectiveness in regards to it's insulation properties, we refer to the dielectric strength of the material. A higher rated material shields better than a lesser rated material. This spec is the ability to prevent leakage past the insulation material. The higher the rating, the better it's going to prevent leakage, and conversely, the lower the rating, the less it's going to prevent leakage.

With low-cost, cheap ignition wires, they are smaller in diameter, use cheaper materials and do not protect as well as a better quality ignition wire.

When you place a "hot" coil pack on or, you amp up the ignition module to a capacitor type of ignition system, the voltage now goes way beyond the OEM rating on the Mopar standard ignition wires thus, breaking down the insulation and, when this happens, the voltage rides on the outside of the conductor. This is what is known as the Corona affect. The voltage breaks down the material further to now allow a field that surrounds the wire and, at night, popping the hood reveals some nice day-glow blue wires! You can actually see the blue glow on the coil wire as well as the ignition wires. Not good and, that is deadly. That's almost at full potential. I once had a boot at the coil that had a tiny pinhole in it. At night, it was like a mini Tesla coil shorting to ground / coil body.

Now, you say, "but I'm not running a hot coil". Well, the voltage is still around 2.5KV so, the potential for jumping, arcing is very high. And, when using standard carbon conductor ignition wires with poor shielding, this becomes a real problem where a wire is in close proximity to another. The path of the electricity is such that it wants to go to ground so, it takes the shortest path and path of least resistance to get there. And, if that happens to be a pointy valve cover bolt, so-be-it, it's going to ground.

This is why they tell you to never touch ignition wires when it's live because, if that voltage were to go though you to ground - it would kill you. It's lethal voltage under the hood. It is always at potential to short to ground, short to another wire that's crossing, or touching, or arc over at the boot.

Do you notice how the plugs are angled towards one another at the block? In wiring it up, the wires will cross at a 90º or, at least be very close to one another. This is potential for arcing to the neighboring cylinder and thus firing it off when it's not supposed to. This is what is known as induction crossfire. It usually happens at / near the block more so than at / near the distributor.

You try rewiring it to that and I will be it will most likely solve your issues. Now, as far as the Bosch plugs, yes, trash them. Try NGKs V-powers. Those work really well and are not prone to misfires. Do not use the platinum ones though.

Now, when the rpm is lower, it is most susceptible to misfiring due to load conditions. The gear your in vs the load at those rpms has an impact on misfires and, it's most common to hear misfires occurring around 1400-2000. Not uncommon.

Chris McKenna

 

oh ok. i dont mind paying that for the senor, only if its not really the problem im 150$ in the hole. i will probably have a garage do the work as i've read it's in a hard to get place and easier to do on a lift. does this resync have to be done on OBD1 too? and lastly could this sensor make the truck foul plugs? because thats what it did before the no start condition. i'm thinking i will also get the plenum kit put on this truck before it goes on the road too. thanks!

 

I find it super easy to get at and to remove and install by removing the air intake assy and crouching in the passenger side engine bay. Just use a- u-joint and a couple of extensions.

NOTE: when removing one that's been in for a very long time, watch out when pulling it out. There's a rubber U-seal that has a tendency to adhere to the sensor body thus pulling it out. Feel with your hands when rocking it side to side. This is how you remove it- by rocking it side to side. If you feel it's not coming out and the rubber seal is pulling out, STOP. Get some mineral oil and douse the seal. It will then slide out nice and easy.

Same goes when installing the new one: apply mineral oil to the body and inside the seal to aid in installation.

Now, as for your question about OBD I- I have no idea. You'd be better off asking the dealer service department. I don't know if they are using the CPS to monitor the timing or if it's used in conjunction with the CKPS to control the timing thus affecting the sync offset value.

 

thanks for the info. i have had no experience doing engine work myself (watched but not the same lol), hence why i was going to get a garage to do it. maybe i will do it myself though, it wont be till spring anyways.

 

I missed one of your questions regarding fouled plugs: the answer is no, it would not foul plugs. That is caused by either oil being sucked into the intake ports (blown plenum) spent rings- (blow by). Those are the two most likely root causes for that issue.

I would definitely have a pro shop diagnose it first. Save you that cost on the sensor if it's not the problem. The DRB tool will tell them if it's bad or not.

Chris