ok i have a couple questions

1. i figured out why my truck hops when turning left, my wheel bearing is shot. now my question is, i have a 600 miles round trip i have to make and i cant fix it till after, should i be concerned? ive never had a wheel bearing problem



2. im trying to figure my gas gauge out still, so my question is when using an ohm meter on the fuel pump (instead of dropping the tank)im going stick the ohm meter in the connector on top of pump. so the reads should be high ohms if its empty and low ohms when full right?

its stuck on full thats why i ask, it should be nearly empty, so i should be able to tell if its fuel pump related or not by doing this right?.



thanks

 

If you don't fix the bearing the only bad thing that will happen is the tire will come off. I got a timken bearing/hub for 190 and a napa was 130. We shall see which does better timken (was a good brand) or napa.

 

it moves about an inch back and forth and up and down, do you think it will last the 600 mile trip? its all highway i mean it runs smooth as hell, and it only hops when going slow. if i have momentum it doesnt hop at all.

 

If it's moving that much, just make sure your auto and life insurance are paid up before you leave.

Seriously, though, I don't think it'll make the trip. If it has that much play it's dangerous.

 

Really? Take the gf nissan maxima. Mine squeked and I changed it. Its one of the things that need to be replaced.

I can only imaggen a tire/wheel coming off at 60 mph. You better look for a new front end.

 

I wouldn't attempt the trip. It is very unsafe and it's going to cause a lot more damage than just replacing the bearing.

 

yeah worrying about it the whole time would be enough to ruin the trip for me...

 

well as for my g/f's maxima, when i was trying to get it out of the snowbank, i had it tached to like 5500 rpms, and all the sudden the alternator popped. so i cant take that....and im going to Maine to see my rents for x-mas, and i need my truck my mom said cuz our gifts are big.

are they greasable? maybe i can get it backed with greese befor i go uust so it can hold out on the trip

 

Good luck.

 

I know our trucks are a bit different, but this is a quote from ALLDATA for my truck.

FUEL LEVEL SENDING UNIT / SENSOR
The fuel gauge sending unit (fuel level sensor) is attached to the side of the fuel pump module. The sending unit consists of a float, an arm, and a variable resistor track (card).

The fuel pump module has 4 different circuits (wires). Two of these circuits are used for the fuel gauge sending unit for fuel gauge operation, and for certain OBD II emission requirements. The other 2 wires are used for electric fuel pump operation.

For Fuel Gauge Operation: A constant current source of about 32 mA is supplied to the resistor track on the fuel gauge sending unit. This is fed directly from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) . The resistor track is used to vary the voltage depending on fuel tank float level. As fuel level increases, the float and arm move up, which decreases voltage. As fuel level decreases, the float and arm move down, which increases voltage. The varied voltage signal is returned back to the PCM through the sensor return circuit. Output voltages will vary from about 0.6 volts at FULL, to about 8.6 volts at EMPTY (Jeep models), or, about 7.0 volts at EMPTY (Dodge Truck models). NOTE: For diagnostic purposes, this voltage can only be verified with the fuel gauge sending unit circuit closed (i.e. having all of the sending units electrical connectors connected).

Both of the electrical circuits between the fuel gauge sending unit and the PCM are hard-wired (not multi-plexed). After the voltage signal is sent from the resistor track, and back to the PCM, the PCM will interpret the resistance (voltage) data and send a message across the multi-plex bus circuits to the instrument panel cluster. Here it is translated into the appropriate fuel gauge level reading. Refer to Instrument Panel for additional information.