Intake bolt broken, my worst nightmare
#11
12-27-2009, 02:01 PM
Grand Champion
#12
12-27-2009, 03:20 PM
you need to get it out. putting it back together w/o the front corner bolt is asking for crack and/or leak.
there's a freeze spray some recommend. i haven't tried it, but it sounds interesting. but you have to be able to grab hold somehow. so that may or may not work out.
the conventional way is to drill it out. you'll have to center punch it and start with a smaller drill bit, then move up to a larger one. its a slow process and requires a lot of patience. cover your lifter valley, head ports, etc and duct tape it off. you don't want any metal chips dropping down in there.
be patient and careful. the one thing you DONT want to do is break off a hard *** drill bit inside the bolt you're drilling, because then you have an even bigger problem. ask me how i know that.
once you get the center of the broken bolt drilled out, it relieves the stress and an Ease Out will generally remove the hull.
there's a freeze spray some recommend. i haven't tried it, but it sounds interesting. but you have to be able to grab hold somehow. so that may or may not work out.
the conventional way is to drill it out. you'll have to center punch it and start with a smaller drill bit, then move up to a larger one. its a slow process and requires a lot of patience. cover your lifter valley, head ports, etc and duct tape it off. you don't want any metal chips dropping down in there.
be patient and careful. the one thing you DONT want to do is break off a hard *** drill bit inside the bolt you're drilling, because then you have an even bigger problem. ask me how i know that.
once you get the center of the broken bolt drilled out, it relieves the stress and an Ease Out will generally remove the hull.
#13
12-27-2009, 09:26 PM
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#14
12-27-2009, 10:10 PM
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#15
12-27-2009, 10:28 PM
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It'll run but for how long..who knows before you start mixing fluids. Best bet is to take it back apart, sux I know, but by the time you figure something out it could've been done, specially while everythings fresh in ur head. Been wrenchin' for 25 years and the best mechanics tought me, "if it's in the way, move it", feel ur pain bro, specially during the Holidays
#16
12-27-2009, 10:29 PM
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#17
12-27-2009, 10:34 PM
from http://www.touringmachine.com/Articles/maintenance/198/
Penetrants
Mousemilk
Mousemilk is a special-use penetrating product. It good for freeing up frozen joints, etc. From their website “MOUSE MILK will dissolve rust, relieve friction and resist oxidation. MOUSE MILK has amazing creeping ability. Frozen nuts and bolts can be easily loosened and removed after allowing MOUSE MILK to creep down the threads and break up the rust and corrosion.”
It works really well on engine parts where heat and corrosion have almost fused parts. It’s not the first thing you reach for when looking for a penetrant, but it’s often the last. You can buy it from their site for $7.22 for an 8 Ounce Squeeze bottle. It also comes in larger sizes. SkyGeek has a bottle for $5.25. A little bottle will last a really long time.
Kroil
From their website “An industry proven penetrating oil that has no equal. Quickly loosens rusted nuts and bolts – frees frozen shafts, pulleys, etc. Penetrates to 1 millionth inch spaces, dissolves rust, lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. Displaces moisture. The oil that creeps”
This is good for heavy duty corrosion. I’d use it on parts that look like they might be stuck, give it a few minutes, and then turn the wrenches. It saves stripping the heads and scraping knuckles. You can buy it from their site in a spray can AeroKroil (Kroil aerosol) for $11.00 per individual 10 oz. can. You can also buy a 55 gal. drum of it for $1,500 but that’s a bit of overkill. Amazon is selling a 10 oz. can for 11.50. It’s not available in my local hardware stores but I’ve seen it in large auto parts stores.
PB Blaster
I’ve never used PB Blaster but there are lots of flame wars comparing this product to Kroil. One big advantage this has is that you should be able to find it readily at your local hardware store. It’s also relatively cheap, Amazon is selling a 16 oz can of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst for $2.84.
Pen Safe
This product is made by Frontier Performance Lubricants. From their website: “#853 PEN SAFE
A non-flammable fast acting penetrant, rust inhibitor and lubricant that can penetrate through rust and corrosion in as little as 15 seconds allowing fast and easy removal of rusted or seized components.”
This is a good first choice for just about everything that is stuck. Unfortunately, you can only buy it from the manufacturer, and only by the case. It runs $149 for a case.
LPS1 and LPS2
These are good lubricants and simple penetrants. LPS1 is a bit thinner than LPS2. You might want to use these before removing the wire from an aileron hinge. They are the penetrant of choice for unsticking and lubeing pulley wheels. LPS2 is great for lubeing hinges and rocker arms. They come in aerosol cans and in liquid that you can use in a spray bottle. They are made by LPS Labs.
From their website “Nondrying, oily film for long lasting lubrication. Loosens rusted and frozen parts. Protects against corrosion on steel parts indoors for up to one year. Displaces moisture. Safe on paint and most plastics.”
I’ve seen aerosol cans of LPS1 is in local hardware stores. An 11 oz aerosol can of LPS2 runs around $6.95 at SkyGeek and LPS1 is $11.95. A gallon of LPS2 is $27.95. I’d probably get a gallon of this if you do a lot of work on your airplane. Amazon is selling a gallon of LPS1 for $33.82.
Other Products
Some people use WD40 and Liquid Wrench but in my limited experience, the other products work much better.
Report from Machinist’s Workshop
BuckeyRat posted the following test on the TriumphRat forum.
Don’t forget the April 2007 “Machinist’s Workshop” magazine comparison test. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.
Penetrating oil ......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds
*The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 – 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.*
*Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is about
as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price.
SHELF LIFE - VERY SHORT. 30 days after opening.
Shelf Life
Mousemilk when not exposed to light is a brown liquid with a slight green tint when poured. It has a distinctive
toluene solvent odor. The shelf life times are based on product that is stored at temperatures not exceeding 80 degrees
and not exposed to direct sunlight.
Closed Container:
After exposure to light for 60 days the oil will develop a light brown tint. The color change does not affect the product
effectiveness as a penetrating oil or lubricant. The product remains effective, when stored in a closed container, for 10
years.
Opened Container:
Product will develop light brown tint within 30 days. Airborne particles will contaminate the product and the volatile
ingredients will dissipate rapidly. Product will become ineffective as penetrating oil after 30 days.
Penetrants
Mousemilk
Mousemilk is a special-use penetrating product. It good for freeing up frozen joints, etc. From their website “MOUSE MILK will dissolve rust, relieve friction and resist oxidation. MOUSE MILK has amazing creeping ability. Frozen nuts and bolts can be easily loosened and removed after allowing MOUSE MILK to creep down the threads and break up the rust and corrosion.”
It works really well on engine parts where heat and corrosion have almost fused parts. It’s not the first thing you reach for when looking for a penetrant, but it’s often the last. You can buy it from their site for $7.22 for an 8 Ounce Squeeze bottle. It also comes in larger sizes. SkyGeek has a bottle for $5.25. A little bottle will last a really long time.
Kroil
From their website “An industry proven penetrating oil that has no equal. Quickly loosens rusted nuts and bolts – frees frozen shafts, pulleys, etc. Penetrates to 1 millionth inch spaces, dissolves rust, lubricates, cleans and prevents rust. Displaces moisture. The oil that creeps”
This is good for heavy duty corrosion. I’d use it on parts that look like they might be stuck, give it a few minutes, and then turn the wrenches. It saves stripping the heads and scraping knuckles. You can buy it from their site in a spray can AeroKroil (Kroil aerosol) for $11.00 per individual 10 oz. can. You can also buy a 55 gal. drum of it for $1,500 but that’s a bit of overkill. Amazon is selling a 10 oz. can for 11.50. It’s not available in my local hardware stores but I’ve seen it in large auto parts stores.
PB Blaster
I’ve never used PB Blaster but there are lots of flame wars comparing this product to Kroil. One big advantage this has is that you should be able to find it readily at your local hardware store. It’s also relatively cheap, Amazon is selling a 16 oz can of PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst for $2.84.
Pen Safe
This product is made by Frontier Performance Lubricants. From their website: “#853 PEN SAFE
A non-flammable fast acting penetrant, rust inhibitor and lubricant that can penetrate through rust and corrosion in as little as 15 seconds allowing fast and easy removal of rusted or seized components.”
This is a good first choice for just about everything that is stuck. Unfortunately, you can only buy it from the manufacturer, and only by the case. It runs $149 for a case.
LPS1 and LPS2
These are good lubricants and simple penetrants. LPS1 is a bit thinner than LPS2. You might want to use these before removing the wire from an aileron hinge. They are the penetrant of choice for unsticking and lubeing pulley wheels. LPS2 is great for lubeing hinges and rocker arms. They come in aerosol cans and in liquid that you can use in a spray bottle. They are made by LPS Labs.
From their website “Nondrying, oily film for long lasting lubrication. Loosens rusted and frozen parts. Protects against corrosion on steel parts indoors for up to one year. Displaces moisture. Safe on paint and most plastics.”
I’ve seen aerosol cans of LPS1 is in local hardware stores. An 11 oz aerosol can of LPS2 runs around $6.95 at SkyGeek and LPS1 is $11.95. A gallon of LPS2 is $27.95. I’d probably get a gallon of this if you do a lot of work on your airplane. Amazon is selling a gallon of LPS1 for $33.82.
Other Products
Some people use WD40 and Liquid Wrench but in my limited experience, the other products work much better.
Report from Machinist’s Workshop
BuckeyRat posted the following test on the TriumphRat forum.
Don’t forget the April 2007 “Machinist’s Workshop” magazine comparison test. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted” environment.
Penetrating oil ......... Average load
None ..................... 516 pounds
WD-40 .................... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ............ 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix.............53 pounds
*The ATF-Acetone mix was a “home brew” mix of 50 – 50 automatic transmission
fluid and acetone.*
*Note the “home brew” was better than any commercial product in this one
particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that “Liquid Wrench” is about
as good as “Kroil” for about 20% of the price.
SHELF LIFE - VERY SHORT. 30 days after opening.
Shelf Life
Mousemilk when not exposed to light is a brown liquid with a slight green tint when poured. It has a distinctive
toluene solvent odor. The shelf life times are based on product that is stored at temperatures not exceeding 80 degrees
and not exposed to direct sunlight.
Closed Container:
After exposure to light for 60 days the oil will develop a light brown tint. The color change does not affect the product
effectiveness as a penetrating oil or lubricant. The product remains effective, when stored in a closed container, for 10
years.
Opened Container:
Product will develop light brown tint within 30 days. Airborne particles will contaminate the product and the volatile
ingredients will dissipate rapidly. Product will become ineffective as penetrating oil after 30 days.
Last edited by dhvaughan; 12-27-2009 at 11:05 PM.
#18
12-27-2009, 11:01 PM
Actually, I use ATF mixed with either Kerosene or Acetone or IPA when milling and or tapping holes. Works excellent for machining applications as well.
I liked CRCs freeze off product. I snapped two bolts on my intake and had tried the BS practice of using EZ outs which, I find useless as **** on a bull.
While good for removing a bolt that is not thread seized or, the head has simply stripped out etc, for bolts that are froze up solid into cast iron, steel, Al etc, I simply just use freeze off and then use a left hand drill bit. Never had any issues removing any bolts using that method. Next time, I will give the solvent and ATF mix a whirl. Acetone evaporates almost the fastest of all the solvents and acts as a vehicle to carry the lubricant into tiny gaps such as thread gaps. This is why it's an excellent carrier. It also evaporates extremely quick. This leaves behind the penetrant / oil / lubricating medium thus making it a good choice for tight fitting parts.
I liked CRCs freeze off product. I snapped two bolts on my intake and had tried the BS practice of using EZ outs which, I find useless as **** on a bull.
While good for removing a bolt that is not thread seized or, the head has simply stripped out etc, for bolts that are froze up solid into cast iron, steel, Al etc, I simply just use freeze off and then use a left hand drill bit. Never had any issues removing any bolts using that method. Next time, I will give the solvent and ATF mix a whirl. Acetone evaporates almost the fastest of all the solvents and acts as a vehicle to carry the lubricant into tiny gaps such as thread gaps. This is why it's an excellent carrier. It also evaporates extremely quick. This leaves behind the penetrant / oil / lubricating medium thus making it a good choice for tight fitting parts.
Last edited by cmckenna; 12-27-2009 at 11:10 PM.
#19
12-27-2009, 11:07 PM
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Yeah, I love my Dodge again. Also, a very experienced mechanic told me to pour 1 quart of Diesel fuel in the block, where the rods are before I put the manifold back on. Cleans it out. Well I did, changed the oil ( it was VERY sludgy) and new Mobil 1 with Motorcraft filter. runs better than ever. Yall ever heard of the diesel being used to clean?
#20
12-27-2009, 11:12 PM
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