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Intake bolt broken, my worst nightmare

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  #21  
Old 12-27-2009, 11:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 2001Ram
Yeah, I love my Dodge again. Also, a very experienced mechanic told me to pour 1 quart of Diesel fuel in the block, where the rods are before I put the manifold back on. Cleans it out. Well I did, changed the oil ( it was VERY sludgy) and new Mobil 1 with Motorcraft filter. runs better than ever. Yall ever heard of the diesel being used to clean?
Yup. A oldie but a goody. The only issue is that sometimes, it eats gasket materials. Depending on what additives are in it, it may or may not eat certain materials. Did you run it with the fuel in the case or simply pour it over to dissolve the sludge in the lifter valley?
 
  #22  
Old 12-27-2009, 11:15 PM
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I still want to seafoam it. But I saw a bunch of sludgy stuff in the oil I dont normall see, I assume that was from the diesel
 
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Old 12-27-2009, 11:17 PM
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You can actually obtain the same or better results with a top end engine cleaner. There was one that some were raving about. It was called Auto RX or something. I haven't used / tried it personally but, the claims are quite good based on user reviews. I recall going to the site for that where, they had quite a bit of information, videos of before and after of engine parts etc.

I have used seafoam before a few times. It's good.
 
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:20 AM
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I just poured the diesel in the top of the block before the manifold was back on. Cleaned out the pan too.
 
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Old 12-28-2009, 12:16 PM
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A quick way to remove the bolt is to weld a nut onto it.The heat from the weld loosens up the bolt and the nut gives you a place to turn it.
I see that you have it done..This is another way it that oil doesn't work.
 
  #26  
Old 12-28-2009, 12:33 PM
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That would work, if I had a welder.
 
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:03 PM
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Deisel is great but pretty strong. I'd at least change your filter after about 1000 miles as it will still loosen up some sludge.

I've used AutoRX. I'll be opening up the engine in a couple of days and I'll give you an update. I don't expect a massive difference, as I don't run dino oil and don't run extended drain cycles.
 
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Old 12-28-2009, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by aim4squirrels
Deisel is great but pretty strong. I'd at least change your filter after about 1000 miles as it will still loosen up some sludge.

I've used AutoRX. I'll be opening up the engine in a couple of days and I'll give you an update. I don't expect a massive difference, as I don't run dino oil and don't run extended drain cycles.
Where did you find it? I can't find it out here. What's the cost on that and, what is the treatment- gas or oil or both as a kit?
 
  #29  
Old 12-28-2009, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by aim4squirrels
Deisel is great but pretty strong. I'd at least change your filter after about 1000 miles as it will still loosen up some sludge.

I've used AutoRX. I'll be opening up the engine in a couple of days and I'll give you an update. I don't expect a massive difference, as I don't run dino oil and don't run extended drain cycles.

Good idea, Glad I went with the Fl-1A, Id be mad if I had to replace a K&N twice.

Never heard of Auto RX but Ill keep an eye out.
 
  #30  
Old 12-28-2009, 03:54 PM
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I've seen about everything when it comes to cleaning out a crank case. What I've found works best is to drain the oil, refill it with 3 quarts oil 2 quarts of diesel fuel. Run it at idle for about 20 minutes, let it sit and cool, then run it again.

Drain the oil and change the filter, refill it with some cheap oil. Run it for a few miles then change it again.
 


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