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BROKEN EXHAUST MANIFOLD BOLT (pic)

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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 06:23 PM
  #11  
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im still using the stock manifold for now, and i wish i had a welder that would be real easy cure, ( i need to invest in one ) but i dont, just getting the stock gaskets at parts store, fel pro im assuming ill check, the two bolts in rear broke by themselves , i noticed a slight leak and looked and noticed they were missing, I broke the middle one when i checked to see if the rears were missing or broken off, dont have the money for headers now, nor am i sure i want the constant hassle i hear on here about them all time....actually you can use your battery , jumper cables and welding rod right??? i know its dangerous and a last ditch effort ,but ive seen it done in 4 wheel magazine no? hahahaha i can see it now lmao
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 06:43 PM
  #12  
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ummmm i wouldn't suggest it. lol. i would keep trying to use pliers or vice grips. seeing as you have part of the stud still. try spraying it with the freeze off and tapping it with a hammer. same concept as the spring punch basically. if that don't work, and you don't have a welder, you might actually have to cut some of the stud off some more, and drill it out...
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 06:47 PM
  #13  
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if i get a tap & die set couldnt i just run it all the way down the stud to gain more threads for using two nuts to take it off? im out for now
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 06:51 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by johnjokela
if i get a tap & die set couldnt i just run it all the way down the stud to gain more threads for using two nuts to take it off? im out for now
Yes but running a Die will only tighten the stud more.
Vise grips like to spin and tear up studs.
Try a small pipe wrench..
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 06:53 PM
  #15  
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do you have torches? get it red hot and then use the vise grip to twist it out. if not you could try running your engine till it gets really hot then try twisting it out with visegrip.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 08:40 PM
  #16  
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this is the only thing holding me back from putting headers on mine, my manifolds are rusty beyond anything iv seen yet. I really dont want to break off the bolds. i dont have a welder or torches, would a industrial heat gun work? i got one that will get it about 1200 degrees
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 09:12 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by yakkier
this is the only thing holding me back from putting headers on mine, my manifolds are rusty beyond anything iv seen yet. I really dont want to break off the bolds. i dont have a welder or torches, would a industrial heat gun work? i got one that will get it about 1200 degrees
i don't think a heat gun would work. you need to get the nuts and bolt red hot. driving around for an hour then trying to crack the nuts and bolts would probably work better than a heat gun.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #18  
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ive used the freeze off , pb blaster, vise grips,channel locks, small pipe wrench, torch and candle wax trick, tapping with a hammer, no budge, all i got is a propane torch im sure its not getting it hot enough almost red,getting the spark plug heat shield red in no hurry, thought about getting a bottle of map gas, guess ill repeat and be patient........*** i need a torch and welder, lol, not using the freezoff and torch right after eachother thought id crack something
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 10:09 PM
  #19  
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the reder you can get that stud the easier it will come out.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2010 | 11:12 PM
  #20  
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I had a stubborn stud that wouldn't come out. I actually bought two nuts and tried that... but soon learned the difference from regular grade nuts, and the nuts I should have bought. A small propane touch did the trick heating the head (around where the stud comes from). The studs themselves arn't in that far, and I think that is why the propane did the trick. Keep working at it...
 
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