I bought my 98 dodge with 185k on it, i believe it to be the stock tranny, It started shifting weird into second gear, than 3rd gear started acting up, sometimes it wouldnt shift but when i would drop it down into 2nd on the console and back up into drive it would shift, it slowly started getting worse, now my 3rd seems to shift a little bit better but now i have no overdrive, the tranny dont slip just wont shift right,,, im thinking its got a bad valve body but not for sure, if it is the valve body can i remove it without pulling the tranny.

 

It is computer controlled. You might try unhooking the battery to reset the computer, but these transmissions are known to fail. It could be a valvebody issue, though if it isn't slipping yet.

 

its likely a govener pressure sensor or soloniod or a tps sensor..... could be your tv cable is out of adjustment though..... you may find a code like a 1741 with a reader which will give you a better idea if its the first two parts I mentioned or something else....I dont believe disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will do anything on 2nd gen ram transmissions...
(mine did the same thing and the firsttwo parts fixed it after I found a 1741 code with a reader from harbor frieght. takes and hour and a half or so to fix)

 

yes you can remove the valve body without dropping the tranny.....i would put money on the governor pressure solenoid is shot.

 

Thanks for the advice guys by the sounds of it i have a bad governer pressure sensor, if thats the case could you guys tell me how much it would cost me to fix and the procedure for doing this. thanks again

 

this link here is exactly what you need. follow it and youll be good assuming that is the problem. have u checked the codes or are there any?


https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...d-install.html

 

as for the parts just call tranny shops around you and any dodge dealers. i got mine sensor and solenoid and a new temp sensor all for about $180. not likely that you be so lucky. that dirts cheap.

 

the wire harness for the solenoids sometimes will develop a crack in the seal where it exits the inside of the tranny. Fluid will get into the wires and cause weird shifting symtoms. Chaeck that and replace while your diggin around in there. I think the wire harnes was about $120 from NAPA when i got mine.

 

need some help please! well a few weeks ago my truck started shifting funny, would not shift out of first unless i let out of the throttle, then it would completely skip 2nd and go in 3rd. i checked the fluid- it was full, was not burnt, nothing in clear as the day i put it in. so i figured it was the govener pressure sensor and soloniod. i changed that and looked at the wires. nothing wrong there. but it is doing the same thing. any other ideas?

 

Swapping the internal wire harness is not something most people would think of doing as routine preventive maintainance.
You have to drop the valve body to replace it, a procedure not for the faint of heart, and not something done for the heck of it.
I got mine for $60 at a local tranny shop.

An easy thing to check when the pan is dropped, that I have found is frequently broken is the drivers side accumulator piston spring.
These most certainly cause shifting problems when they fail.
This is located inside an enclosure of the valve body that has a cover with 4 allen/torx head screws.
Take these screws out, and the piston [and spring] will drop right out.
If its in 2 pieces, replace with a new one.
[A failed spring will usually compress the broken part into the other, as it has no where else to go, making it appear at 1st glance that it is 1 piece. So if there is a spring coiled inside a spring, replace it.]

Just make sure to put the piston and spring back in the way it came out - There is another piston and spring, but to access it you must drop the valve body.
Not worth it just to check on the spring - But if the harness actually needs to be replaced, the VB must be dropped to do that, then you can check on the piston spring -and O-rings also].

I would recommend getting access to a quality scan tool, along with someone who knows how to interpret the results.
Also, if you are handy with a multimeter, you should be able to check the harness wiring continuity without having to take it out first.
Might need someone to help, to hold one lead in place at the connector while you check where it terminates on the various solenoids with the other.
Simply put, if you find any lack of continuity in any of the wires, its bad. If you don't, its good.

Before that, I would try playing a bit with the throttle control cable - Tiny adjustments either way can have large affects, both good and bad.