I seem to have yet another problem on my plate now. I am getting a roaring sound from the fan area when I hit the gas. it is very annoying. I just wanted another opinion as to whether it is the clutch or not. I am pretty sure it is because there is a tiny bit of play in the fan clutch. Also, every once in a while the temp guage will go up just a little bit, then back down. I have a 180* Hypertech t-stat, so if replacing the clutch would bring the temp up even a little that would be awesome. Maybe get some more heat.lol

 

I dont see how replacing the fan clutch would make things hotter, but might quieten down the roaring sound you hear and tighten up the play.

 

Sometimes the fan clutch will get froze up and the fan will stay engaged all the time. It will cost you mileage and warm-up time but your but should'nt cause any change in how warm the interior heat gets. One way to check is when the motor is cold and shut off, try to see if it spins freely. It might have a little resistance but should'nt be hard to spin.
I just took an old diesel engine trick and put a piece of cardboard about 2/3's the size of my radiator in front. Then I also swapped my heater hoses to reverse the flow thru the heater core, seems to help for now. Just a temporary fix though, I'll be replacing the heater core come spring time

 

I just replaced my fan clutch because when I turned the engine off it keep spinning also got rid of some under the hood noises
Have someone in truck and watch the fan when they turn it off, if it keeps spinning after turned off its time to replace.

 

a way to tell if the fan clutch is bad is 1 the roaring. but, it could be the water pump since they are on the same spindle.

but on the front of the fan clutch there is a coil spring that spirals in. this spring is supposed to heat up, and when it does it activates the fan clutch. make sure it is seated between the two grooves for a positive contact. but a roa is def. a sound of a bad clutch...mine roared and i changed the fan clutch and it fixed t (80 bucks i think for brand new one at carquest)

 

While having some temperature issues, I could never determine whether the viscous was working correctly or not until I found the following test in a '96 FSM.
*Drill a hole in the top center of the fan shroud between the fan and rad.
*Insert an 8" meat thermometer (70 -220 deg F.)
*Connect a tach & timing light if you have one.
*Block the air to the Rad. & air condenser.
*Operate the engine @ 2400 RPMs.
*When Thermometer reaches 165 to 180 Deg F, fan should start to engage.
(Fan should roar & timing light will show increase fan speed.)
*When the temperature reaches 190 deg F, remove rad blockage.
*The fan should start to disengage when the temperature reaches 135 to 175 deg F. Note fan noise & timing light.

 

Clean meat thermomenter off so wife won't raise hell!

 

Problem solved! I just eliminated the manual clutch and fan and put an electric fan on it. No more noise!!!

 

Good boy!

 

Man, I am loving this so far. I can actually feel that the resistance from the old fan and clutch is gone. And, it is alot more quiet.