Hey guys this is my first post here, its nice to have found a place where everyone thinks the same!

anyways, here is my issue, i have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with a 5.2 automatic, the other day it just wouldnt start traced the problem back to a bad cam sensor, removed the distributor, replaced the cam sensor new cap and rotor new plugs and wires, got it all back together hooked up my mac mentor scanner, moved the distributor till the scanner said it was in sync range and the truck synced up idle went to normal reved up great but when i go to drive it there is no power and Pings horrible.... what could be wrong? thanks

 

search the plenum gasket....if it hasnt been changed yet 99.9% its blown now....

All us second genners will have it leak due to chryslers design flaw

 

That process of moving the dizzy to sync is not the correct way to do this. What is preferred is to use a software tool and reset the sync offset value at the PCM program level-not mechanically.

The process is normally done by first re-timing your CAM to distributor at TDC. Once that is complete, now, the last step is to check the offset value at the PCM level and, if it's too far out, it will have to be reset in order to time align the fuel delivery to the ignition firing / timing sequence. This ensures that your CKPS is sync'd to the CAM via CPS. This should alleviate the sputtering and out of time issue that your having now. My guess is that there's an out of range condition at the PCM level between the CKPS and CPS respectively.

The tool to use to reprogram your PCM is either one of two and that's either a DART or DRB III tool. Those are the most accurate way of doing this.

 

is there someplace other than the dealer that can do this? is the tool available to buy? i dont understand how dodge can take somthing so simple as timing and screw it all up like this. i just pulled it all apart again and its defiantly all aligned correctly

 

The issue is that it's all electronic timing. This is the problem that most face today when working on newer cars. In the old days, heck, you simply timed it using a light and moving the diz around until it lined up. It was simple as 1,2,3.

With electronic ignition modules and EFI systems, it's now at the PCM program level for the "fine-tuning" while the gross movements of the distributor do absolutely nothing other than throw the timing off.

There's no mechanical advance or vac advance so, it does not function the same way it did years before.

To add to that, when you move the diz around, all your really doing is offsetting the cap in relation to spark which can cause real problems such as arcing in the cap.

Since the PCM controls when the spark occurs, and, it's not an always <ON> voltage, you, the end user has NO WAY of advancing that spark regardless of where you rotate the diz. Even putting a half-inch retarded, the PCM still fires the coil at the same exact time every time as it's programmed to do so. So, what you end up with is a spark that is now going to arc over to the shortest path thus resulting in timing issues to say the least.

Now, had it been an always on, then, moving the diz would change / speed / retard the spark. But, in all cases with new vehicles that are computer controlled, the PCM / ECU controls the timing of the spark simply by pulsing the coil ON / OFF in time based on the sync parameter values at the PCM program level.

To answer your question regarding those tools:

Yes, you can buy them but, be prepared to spend from 6K and up for the DRB tools. The DART systems are also up there. Last one that was purchased back years ago was 5500.00.

It's cheaper and much better (if you've never done it) to pay 150.00-250.00 bucks to have it done at the dealer on the custom Dodge DRB-III rack rigs. They can totally fine tune it for you and dial it right in in a matter of minutes.

This is your cheapest and most secure route of fixing that issue. Even when changing out the CKPS and CPS, if they are not EXACTLY putting out the same waveform and sine as the OEMs that came out, the timing will be off to more or lesser degree and, the only way to alleviate this is to have it re-timed electronically.

I won't even recommend other software packages because, for one thing, most don't even work never mind on Dodge trucks that were made back then. They are all very limited. I had three people come to my shop and give me demos of their packages and, all failed to even read those values never mind being able to reprogram them.

This is why it's necessary to have the proper tool. It's not merely a code reader as you are aware nor simply a diagnostic tool but, it's a reprogramming tool and, if it's cheap or, you lose bus sync, the PCM program will be shot and will have to be reflashed with a pro-level flash tool at that point.

Once the firmware is damaged, no flash tool will be able to fix it at that state because, no flash tool will be able to communicate with the PCM at that point. This is why it's important to keep in mind what is being done here and, a poor tool or cheap USB or Firewire tool connected to a laptop may cause major damage.

At that point, the PCM will have to be removed and sent out to have the firmware re-flashed onto the chips themselves. Then the chips are placed back in and the program is reinstalled via the OBD port.

Best bet - go to the dealer and tell them you want to have your CAM retimed and for them to reset your sync as well as verifying both the CKPS and CPS values and relationship to one another.


Chris

 

god thats a beautiful engine

 

Thanks. It is now dirty as hell from the 3500 mile cross country road trip from the West Coast. I have to give a good cleaning come this weekend or sometime soon.

 

Looks like a $ writen all over it lol