M1 Mopar Performance Intake
I found a used mopar m1 intake for our truck and was wondering what people think of them. I need to do the plenum repair because i have a slight leak and might be able to get this the same price as the hughes plenum repair kit.
I've done a few searches and seems like people say they loss bottom end power. One person however claims it only gave his truck top end and didnt loss any bottom end power. I dont feel like spending $600 for the hughes air gap because i'm unsure how long i'll be keeping my truck
I've done a few searches and seems like people say they loss bottom end power. One person however claims it only gave his truck top end and didnt loss any bottom end power. I dont feel like spending $600 for the hughes air gap because i'm unsure how long i'll be keeping my truck
THe bottom end loss isn't too noticeable, the Hughes will have the same bottom end loss, regardless of what anyone says. Some supporting mods will get that bottom end back and even exceed it pretty easily, my truck has way more low end than stock and it doesn't hit a wall at 4500RPMs like the kegger.
In short, I love mine and would never trade it for the Hughes or the keg.
In short, I love mine and would never trade it for the Hughes or the keg.
Thanks hahes5.2, thats what i was looking to hear. I've heard that from a few people that they had no bottom end loss and a good bit of top end power.
Did you pick up any mpg's or did it stay about the same? Alsom do you have a link to a new one? Or do you know the part number so i can make sure this one will fit my truck.
Thank, Zach
Did you pick up any mpg's or did it stay about the same? Alsom do you have a link to a new one? Or do you know the part number so i can make sure this one will fit my truck.
Thank, Zach
I agree. The money you pay for it isn't really worth it if your engine isn't built up. Just mod the intake you have already.
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Im with CappinHoff & Lastrights
Non egr M1/2BBL
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007852/?rtype=10
Prefered egr version M1/2BBL.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DC...98AB/?rtype=10
Either of the above versions will be able to use up to a 52mm tb. If you want to run a bigger tb need to port it out.
Either M1 requires this install kit as well
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007638/?rtype=10
Reason I say the prefered one is the egr version, directly below the tb there is a threaded hole in the egr one. This allows you to add a turtle(see pic below) which can be screwed into the bottom to help divert airflow into the runners. Suspected to reduce low rpm torque loss by reducing turbulance & increasing velocity. Also good with running a wet nitrous kit. Will reduce the chances of n2o puddling which can have disasterous results with backfiring & possibly blowing your cai &/or tb off your intake. I ran this version for 4yrs. I picked up a 4bbl one that I had ported & specialty heat releasing & reflective coatings applied top/bottom.
Should sell the 2bbl, when i finally get around to it, will include the required install kit as well as the turtle. I detailed/painted it with silver ceramic caliper paint, powder coated the block off plate & bolts at the rear as well as opened it up to accept a 55mm tb (max you can run w/2bbl version).
Any intake that moves the power band up will be at the cost of low rpm torque like the M1. To regain that torque, really needs a cam with similar operating range (2500-6500rpm) along with valve train, gears & higher stall torque convertor. Run any motor, stock or performance at higher rpms (like you need to with an M1) will only hurt mpg
IMHO, I would not add an M1 by itself, especially to a 4x4 without doing above changes.
Also, how a performance mod affects a Dakota with smaller frontal area (lower D.C.) lower curb wt & less driveline loss will not give the same results in a Ram. Loss will be more pronounced.
Non egr M1/2BBL
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007852/?rtype=10
Prefered egr version M1/2BBL.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DC...98AB/?rtype=10
Either of the above versions will be able to use up to a 52mm tb. If you want to run a bigger tb need to port it out.
Either M1 requires this install kit as well
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5007638/?rtype=10
Reason I say the prefered one is the egr version, directly below the tb there is a threaded hole in the egr one. This allows you to add a turtle(see pic below) which can be screwed into the bottom to help divert airflow into the runners. Suspected to reduce low rpm torque loss by reducing turbulance & increasing velocity. Also good with running a wet nitrous kit. Will reduce the chances of n2o puddling which can have disasterous results with backfiring & possibly blowing your cai &/or tb off your intake. I ran this version for 4yrs. I picked up a 4bbl one that I had ported & specialty heat releasing & reflective coatings applied top/bottom.
Should sell the 2bbl, when i finally get around to it, will include the required install kit as well as the turtle. I detailed/painted it with silver ceramic caliper paint, powder coated the block off plate & bolts at the rear as well as opened it up to accept a 55mm tb (max you can run w/2bbl version).
Any intake that moves the power band up will be at the cost of low rpm torque like the M1. To regain that torque, really needs a cam with similar operating range (2500-6500rpm) along with valve train, gears & higher stall torque convertor. Run any motor, stock or performance at higher rpms (like you need to with an M1) will only hurt mpg
IMHO, I would not add an M1 by itself, especially to a 4x4 without doing above changes.
Also, how a performance mod affects a Dakota with smaller frontal area (lower D.C.) lower curb wt & less driveline loss will not give the same results in a Ram. Loss will be more pronounced.
Last edited by RM_Indy; Jan 30, 2010 at 04:27 AM.



