FWIW, Duner on the Dakota forums in running in the mid 10s in his stock bottom end 5.9 Dakota, he's turboed just using a FMU and BTM to "tune" it, estimated around 600HP I believe..

 

That`s ecouraging about the stock bottom end... Is it truely stock, or does he have forged main caps and studs???

BTW, does anyone know where to get a pair of turbo headers/manifolds? I can`t seem to find any...

 

you might have to custom build a set of headers to run with a turbo

 

Unless you go with a remote STS setup you need custom headers, If you can do all the fabrication yourself great, otherwise, going to cost a fair bit I would think. Thats the reason you dont see any turbo Rams.

Ram fuel pumps run in the 45-49psi range (typo earlier?) 54psi through stock inj will be fine. Procharger kits have them seeing 100psi. B&G will be able to give you a tune, may take a couple tries though & that means sending the pcm in each time.

Im a bit confused on just what your building here.
5.2 will be stock & run no boost?
As far as what your boost requirements will be to get 500rwhp min all depends on what you build. 360-408ci builds can make anywhere from 250-500rwhp with lower cr for boost.
Mid level 408 probably only take a 5-7psi boost compared to 18-22psi for the mild 360.

 

and megasquirt you dont have to dyno... i completly tuned mine on the street with a wide band.. ms has autotuning software.. create a map thats close and run it.. also sct can be used along with replacing the map with a 3bar type.....

 

He has a 95 computer, thats obd1, SCT is obdII & wont run it.

 

I could fab the headers, but I`m lazy lol...Took 2 seconds for me to find a set of pollished SS twin turbo headers for a small chevy dirt cheap (go figure). So I`ll just have the local metal works CNC plasma cut some 3/8" SS Chrysler flanges and just cut the chevy ones of then weld mine on.

Not a typo, was on my phone (as I am now) and only had the Haynes manuals to go by. But seeing as they`ll hold 100psi, I don`t think I`ll worry about 54...

This is our spare vehicle and the 2.7 skipped timing... It`s actually cheaper for me to get a junkyard 5.2/5.9 Magnum (whichever is cheaper) and just toss it in; I already have a 46RH and a 9.25... Only reason I`m saying 5.2 is because I know the small junkyard I go to has one. EDIT: The built engine will come later as I need to get the car road worthy asap...I need to do the timing belt in the wife`s 300M and she wants the Intrepid done first just in case.

Ok, so it seems to come down to this, if I balance my stock rotating assembly (adding in some decent pistons and ARP rod bolts), don`t spin it past 6k, and don`t get greedy and ask it to hold more than 500-550hp, will it stay together? I think no matter what I`m gonna get some ARP main studs and forged caps.

 

ur right indy misses it by one year... but at that he could upgrade to a 96 ecu and according sensors for it.

 

Now I`m just plain torn... I just found a 2-11-73 cast date 360 that my friend is literally going to GIVE me. I like the roller lifters in the Magnum, but the thicker cylinder walls and cheaper cam options are looking like a better deal on the LA360. It doesn`t have a top end so I would do the magnum head/MPI conversion...All I would have to do is notch the bell housing for the Crank Position Sensor and run the newer distributor right? I would also swap timing covers so I can run the magnum serpentine set-up.

Thoughts???

 

No you would have to figure out how to oil through the pushrods to get magnum heads to work as the LA motors use a rocker shaft. I think there is a way to do it. The magnum has different motor mounts than the LA also. The magnum block has LA and magnum mounts the LA only has the LA mounts near the front of the block. Since you are going into a custom application you may already be using the LA mounts though.