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2nd Gen Ram Tech1994-2001 Rams: This section is for TECHNICAL discussions only, that involve the 1994 through 2001 Rams. For any non-tech discussions, please direct your attention to the "General discussion/NON-tech" sub sections.
Thanks anyway, man. This is actually two pieces and the part I need is the backside half. The tab that locks it into the bezel broke off.
That's the part that I think was broken on the one I have. I'm not positive that was the vent that was like that though. I will check if I ever find them.
pcfixerpro, how the hell did you get the top of the dash off without destroying it? it must have come off a 98 or a 99.
Easy... bluebeast2 and I just yanked the entire dash out of the truck to pull those tricky defrost screws out. Thats the joy of going to a junkyard, you don't have to worry about cutting stuff up or breaking anything. And btw it did come from a 99. It had two hairline cracks in it which i fixed by drilling and supergluing. But hell... for $20, I can't complain too much lol
i would have used epoxy resin because superglue is pretty brittle when it dries, unless you use it on porcelain. my sisters 99 and my dads 98 both have perfect dashboards, but mine was in a million pieces.
i would have used epoxy resin because superglue is pretty brittle when it dries, unless you use it on porcelain. my sisters 99 and my dads 98 both have perfect dashboards, but mine was in a million pieces.
Epoxy probably wouldn't have been a bad idea at all, but I used what I had. The cracks were pretty small anyway so we'll see what happens down the road.
nice. i meant to say fiberglass resin, but epoxy ought to be good too. if you see that thing start to spread, try some fiberglass resin, then sand it with some 400 grit and hit it with a colormatched flat gray rattle can to make it match.
nice. i meant to say fiberglass resin, but epoxy ought to be good too. if you see that thing start to spread, try some fiberglass resin, then sand it with some 400 grit and hit it with a colormatched flat gray rattle can to make it match.
Or you can weld the cracks if you really want it to last.
it would be a good idea to practice on the old dash first if that route were taken, i'm sure that plastic wouldn't melt the same as a soda bottle or any other kind of normal plastic. not a bad idea though. a small butane torch like the soldering type and a spoon to smooth it out ought to work good. or just a soldering gun to be on the safe side (no flame).
it would be a good idea to practice on the old dash first if that route were taken, i'm sure that plastic wouldn't melt the same as a soda bottle or any other kind of normal plastic. not a bad idea though. a small butane torch like the soldering type and a spoon to smooth it out ought to work good. or just a soldering gun to be on the safe side (no flame).
This is the actual tool used to weld plastic, just like metal welding your filler material has to match the base material for it to fuse properly. It uses hot air to melt the base material and filler material. But you do have to prep your surface material before welding, which is basicly just beveling both sides of the piece your welding to ensure a strong weld. I like this way because the finished product is as good as new.