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Question about dana axles.

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  #11  
Old 02-05-2010, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Miami_Son
Thanks anyway, man. This is actually two pieces and the part I need is the backside half. The tab that locks it into the bezel broke off.
That's the part that I think was broken on the one I have. I'm not positive that was the vent that was like that though. I will check if I ever find them.
 
  #12  
Old 02-05-2010, 06:51 PM
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yakkier, i believe the D60's are 8 lug, meaning you would need new rims. and bigger shackles to hold the wider leaf springs also.

pcfixerpro, how the hell did you get the top of the dash off without destroying it? it must have come off a 98 or a 99.
 
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Old 02-05-2010, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sheriff420
pcfixerpro, how the hell did you get the top of the dash off without destroying it? it must have come off a 98 or a 99.
Easy... bluebeast2 and I just yanked the entire dash out of the truck to pull those tricky defrost screws out. Thats the joy of going to a junkyard, you don't have to worry about cutting stuff up or breaking anything. And btw it did come from a 99. It had two hairline cracks in it which i fixed by drilling and supergluing. But hell... for $20, I can't complain too much lol
 
  #14  
Old 02-05-2010, 07:02 PM
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i would have used epoxy resin because superglue is pretty brittle when it dries, unless you use it on porcelain. my sisters 99 and my dads 98 both have perfect dashboards, but mine was in a million pieces.
 
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Sheriff420
i would have used epoxy resin because superglue is pretty brittle when it dries, unless you use it on porcelain. my sisters 99 and my dads 98 both have perfect dashboards, but mine was in a million pieces.
Epoxy probably wouldn't have been a bad idea at all, but I used what I had. The cracks were pretty small anyway so we'll see what happens down the road.

Went from this



To this
 
  #16  
Old 02-05-2010, 07:20 PM
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nice. i meant to say fiberglass resin, but epoxy ought to be good too. if you see that thing start to spread, try some fiberglass resin, then sand it with some 400 grit and hit it with a colormatched flat gray rattle can to make it match.
 
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Old 02-05-2010, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Sheriff420
nice. i meant to say fiberglass resin, but epoxy ought to be good too. if you see that thing start to spread, try some fiberglass resin, then sand it with some 400 grit and hit it with a colormatched flat gray rattle can to make it match.
Noted, thanks man
 
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Old 02-05-2010, 08:42 PM
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Or you can weld the cracks if you really want it to last.
 
  #19  
Old 02-06-2010, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Weldor
Or you can weld the cracks if you really want it to last.
it would be a good idea to practice on the old dash first if that route were taken, i'm sure that plastic wouldn't melt the same as a soda bottle or any other kind of normal plastic. not a bad idea though. a small butane torch like the soldering type and a spoon to smooth it out ought to work good. or just a soldering gun to be on the safe side (no flame).
 
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Old 02-06-2010, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Sheriff420
it would be a good idea to practice on the old dash first if that route were taken, i'm sure that plastic wouldn't melt the same as a soda bottle or any other kind of normal plastic. not a bad idea though. a small butane torch like the soldering type and a spoon to smooth it out ought to work good. or just a soldering gun to be on the safe side (no flame).
This is the actual tool used to weld plastic, just like metal welding your filler material has to match the base material for it to fuse properly. It uses hot air to melt the base material and filler material. But you do have to prep your surface material before welding, which is basicly just beveling both sides of the piece your welding to ensure a strong weld. I like this way because the finished product is as good as new.

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