Hello fellow DodgeForum readers, I have been using this site actively for the last couple of weeks and deemed it time to subscribe tonight. That being said, I am new here. I think this is such a powerful diagnostic help tool with all of the free information, what a great thing! Anyways, I will get on now with the thread.

Truck: 2001 Dodge 1500 Sport Quad Cab, 4x4, 5.2L 318, 46re automatic transmission, 134,000 miles. I recently purchased this truck and it seems to be a good truck, it just needs some maintenence. The engine runs strong and healthy and there wasn't anything that caught my attention during the test drive.

Original problem: Several days after my purchase, in second gear (only during accelleration), the truck seemed to hesitate and stall and has backfired one time during these episodes. Upon more agressive accelleration, the truck would run strong and healthy. It rarely does this, and only during accelleration in second gear. I immediately began researching the hundreds of things that it could be. First I assumed things such as dirty air filter/fuel injector(s)/spark plugs, wires, or one of the many different sensors, maybe even a vaccum leak. I have not done anything as far as a tune up on the engine or the fuel injection system yet. Also, this being a 2001, I was able to check the computer for any codes by turning the ignition on and off three times. It came back as P DONE meaning no codes had been kicked.

Second Problem: Just yesterday the check engine light came on and the code was 1757: Governor trancducer and selenoid. The only transmission problem I have noticed is also during second gear, and rarely, it will shift in and out of second gear quickly as long as applying gas. If I let off or punch it, it doesn't do it. I have been told that this is a common symptom of the governor pressure selenoid needing replaced. I called a transmission shop today and told them I wanted them to replace them both, replace the filter, and add new trans fluid. I didn't want it to get too expensive so that is all I wanted. They quoted me "$450-$500", the Dodge Dealership here quoted me at $648. So I took my truck to the transmission shop and they pulled my pan first. There was what I considered to be normal metallic residue on the magnet and some on the pan close to the magnet. I would say there was about a tablespoon worth, and it was starting to form the hairlike pattern, looked like tiny small spikes evenly disbursed resembling the magnetic field in the magnet. The shop owner(SALESMAN) took me into the shop so I could see it. This is basically what he told me: he has not seen a magnet with that much metal on it in a long time and he has been in the business for 30 years, he called it "the Don King Hair" magnet, and said that I need a rebuilt transmission for $2,200 if I had them start it today, $2,600 if I come back when I can actually afford that kind of money. He said that he thinks the torque converter needs replaced and that is probably where the metal came from." I had them clean the pan, replace the filter, add fluid, and I got out of there. Needless to say I found another mechanic already that is going to replace the governor transducer and selenoid for $350 this weekend and the same mechanic will do the entire rebuild with labor for $1,500. I understand that it wouldn't hurt to have the rebuild done, but it all comes down to money. I want to get all I can out of this transmisson before I just drop cash like that!

Questions: Basically, it seems there may be two different problems here, the engine's performence during the hesitation/stalling, and the transmission. Could the transmission problem affect the engine's running performance? And what do you think about the transmission with the metal on the magnet? I would greatly appreciate any and all advice! Also, I will definitely post updates on what happens with both of these issues and what I do to tackle them. My plan is to change the governor transducer and selenoid, inspect the magnet to see if more metal has collected that fast, and go from there. Thank you for reading and I can't wait to get some advice!

 

Well I`ll just say this outright, good job getting out of that other shop... I don`t know about your area, but business seems slow everywhere and shops are getting hungry. Most shops seem to love transmissions simply because they are easy to use scare tactics with.

Now, on the subject of your transmission. Just get the gov pressure sensor and solenoid changed. If you want have him put a Trans-Go shift kit in there while he`s in there. Well worth it and one less thing to do come rebuild time IMO.

As for your engine. I`ll bet your cap is carbon tracked and "leaking" ignition voltage as well as "bridging" from one tower to the other; effectively throwing your ignition timing all over the place . A good set of Belden lifetime wires from NAPA, some AC plugs (61-402s IIRC), and a cap and rotor should solve that issue. That should all be done anyway more than likely. But the other thing to check would be your TPS voltage, it`s easiest to check with a scan tool (which most auto parts stores will have for rent or free use). You should see ~.5v @ idle and it should have a smooth transition to 5v @ WOT. If it`s not smooth and jumps all over that can confuse your PCM on transmission shift patterns and engine performance/injector strategy...

 

I agree. Replace the governor and transducer and the filter kit. Should also adjust the bands if needed. If you don't know how to adjust the bands, leave the pan down, I know most members use a torque wrench. I don't, because you don't need one to make the adjustments. With your finger, push down on the band lever and see how much play you have. I adjust the front band to 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch of play. The nut on the front is 3/4 or 19mm and you'll need a number 30 torques to adjust the screw. The rear band same amount of play, the nut will be either 11/16 or 5/8. You can turn the screw with your fingers. Or pliers. Changing the tune up parts are petty easy too. The only hard part is the firing order on the cap. Most techs take the cap off with the wires still on it. You may want to do them on at a time. The screws on the cap will be 7mm socket and phillips. If you any questions, by all means ask.

 

I appreciate the timely advice everyone. That seems like a good relief. Don't get me wrong, I could replace the governor transducer and the solenoid and the tranny could still go south at anytime, but that is just a gamble I am willing to take. The more I think about it though, the more I see how that shop is just tryin to scam me for some quick cash. The shop owner just called me on the phone, I didn't answer the phone and he left a message checking up on my decision. He wants me to call him back so he can try and talk me into going the rebuild route. I will call him back and tell him that I am replacing the sensors myself. Another thing, yesterday while I was in the shop, I was so stressed out at the so called "news" that my tranny was shot, that I didn't even think to ask if they replaced the fluid with ATF+4. I told them to clean the magnet and pan, I will find out Saturday just exactly what they really did do (for $135). As far as adjusting the bands, based on everything I have read, there is no way in hell I would even consider adjusting them myself, I am too unexperienced in transmission tuning. However, the mechanic that is going to replace the transducer and solenoid has the know how and is going to do that while he is in there. (Question: I thought you had to tear into the tranny, such as removing the valve body, etc. to put in a shift kit?) There isn't much to replacing those selenoids, just droping the pan and then removing 4 bolts.

About the engine and the timing, that would be great if the problem was in the cap and rotor. I am mechanically familiar with firing order etc. One of the easiest methods is just to use a sharpy to mark which chamber goes with which wire. I will try to find a free scan at an auto parts store and do the tune up this weekend. My fingers are crossed and I will update the outcome as soon as I change these parts. You guys are great and if anyone else has anymore advice, I am all ears. I agree with everything you guys have said so far, I so appreciate it. One last note for now, I absolutely love this truck and I am confident that a little tuning will make her run perfect. The engine seriously runs so good, it has strong power and sounds very healthy other than what I mentioned. Thanks again everyone out there in Dodge land!

 

Hey everyone, just a quick update on the transmission part of this post. So you were so very right when you said the tranny shops are hungry, that is especially true here in Boise, Idaho. I thought they were a shop I could trust, but was I ever wrong. They tried to scare me with the "metal on the magnet" trick, but thanks to this forum, I did not fall for it. They originally quoted me at a $2,700 rebuild, $2,200 if I let them start it immediately. The shop owner blew up my phone the next day seeing if I wanted to have it rebuilt, and I avoided his calls. Three days after that he called me from a number that I didn't recognize and I accidently answered his call, he begged me to bring my truck to them and he offered another $500 discount, so he went from $2,700 to $1,700 after I showed lack of interest. Can we say CRrroooook!? Anyways, thankfully I found an excellent transmission mechanic who replaced the governor pressure sensor and selenoid, put in another new filter, new fluid, cleaned the pan tremendously well, and put in a new magnet. In a matter of 5 days of driving, more metal had collected on the magnet which only makes sense on a 135,000 transmission and the fact that maybe 60% of the fluid is drained when doing a service. Long story short, that shop did a ****ty transmission service for $135, tried to rob me blind, and with the replaced parts, my transmission is running like brand new and has for two weeks. I just took the truck on a long road trip this last weekend and it ran so strong! Thanks for the advice and I hope this story will help many more people. Don't fall for the metal on the magnet scam! Metal is normal and that is why the magnet is there is to capture it, unless it is extremely excessive or you have chunks of metal, you should be fine without a rebuild for now! Talk to you all later.

Shane

 

I had the same exact problem with my 01 2500 with 128xxx miles on it I would have Never paid a shop just to drop the pan and replace the solenoid pack. 1. I am a girl and 2. Im only 18 years old and I dropped the pan and replaced the parts my self easy easy fix took me about an hour. Too bad I didnt live in your area i would have done it for you close to nothing. I bought the parts for 100 bucks for both of them from a place here in Florida called Consolidated Transmissions. The governor pressure solenoid and transducer switch. According to the code that came up on my odometer (P 1757) that was the problem. unfortunately I did do all that work and it didn't fix it completely I am going to have to get it rebuilt again Its going on its 3rd tranny in 2 months ive had nothing but problem after problem. but the point is you could have saved money by fixing that problem yourself. screw shops some of them are actually out there to help you but the majority of them will just **** you over for your money....