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Wierd starting issue and Code

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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 10:07 AM
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Default Wierd starting issue and Code

Because we all love Gremlins. About 2 weeks ago I was working on my truck and turned the key all the lights turned on gauges worked turned the key and the truck lost ALL power no lights no nothing. Checked battery cables they were not loose but unhooked the ground wire, hooked it back up got in started right up.

Took the truck last night to my friends house because he manages a brake shop and he is gonna replace my rear drums and fix e-brake no issue. He calls this morning says same thing happened to him he popped the hook checked the batter connections but they were tight. He literally just touched the wires said nothing moved but he got in and is started right up??

Cables are on tight, doesn't do it all the time battery has plenty of charge but is a crappy battery.

Was thinking of getting an Optima anyways should I just replace the battery cables or does this sound like something else?

Also getting a sporadic, had it twice in 3 months P0455 code. I replaced the gas cap already. I just get out turn the gas cap unhook battery and goes away. Any ideas?
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 11:11 AM
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The P0455 code is associated with the emissions system- particularly, the EVAP system. It is quite possible that the problem may not be a large/gross leak at all. Many systems trigger this code simply if there is no EVAP flow detected, which is tracked by changes in Short Term Fuel Trim and changes in the Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor data. For example,if the Purge Valve is shorted and never closes, it will throw a code.

Now, the issue of it DYING is something that, to my knowledge, is not related to that code. But, it could possilby be the inverse of that where, the root problem is CAUSING that fault code in that system.


TO diagnose if it's relating to the emissions system you would have to test it.


TEST:

You will have to run a pressurized smoke test on the system and, I would take it to a shop that has this setup.

They will also run it with a live data feed using a Scan Tool to monitor the fuel pressure sensor PID. As they increase the pressure, the PID should also show an increase in pressure.

If it does not show an increase, the PCM will see that as a loss of pressure and / or vacuum is being created when the EVAP monitor is being performed vs. the fact that indeed, pressure is there thus proving that the FTPS fails to read / sense it.

The FTPS is the prime sensor that the PCM monitors leak test data each time the self test is run on the system.

WHAT TO INSPECT: QUICK TESTS

-Gas cap. WHY? if it's leaking or, the seal is SHOT- it's not able to hold pressure thus triggering the fault code.

-Verify the PURGE SOLENOID and VENT VALVE work properly thus, holding vac for ~30-60 secs.

-Measure the RESISTANCE of the solenoids and ensure that they are in spec. I don't know this number off hand so, either you can look this up in the manual or, I can. NOTE: It may not even be listed as like with fuel flow rates and other specs, they are not listed in the manual. At that point, your best bet is to speak to a DOdge Tech and ask him what the OHM spec is. I have had to do this a number of times so, don't be afraid to call and ask someone.

- Check the Charcoal canister for a cracked case

- CHeck the line that runs to it for a dry-rotted hose end that attaches TO the canister.

- Check the VENT LINE that also attaches to that line from the FUEL PUMP.

- Check all vac lines relating to that system for leaks. (the best way is to run a pressurized smoke test.)

- Check filler tube / hose fitting connections for leaks.

-Lastly- Use your nose and smell for gas fumes as a last attempt at rooting out leaks.

Like I stated in the first paragraph, it may be another problem such as a bad ground someplace that is inducing that fault as a result vs. having a fault in the Emissions System.

Regards,

CM
 

Last edited by cmckenna; Feb 17, 2010 at 11:17 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 11:13 AM
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my buddy just had a similar problem..i think you may remember the few threads i made about it....wll he had the battery tested, and it was fine they said....well i asked how the terminals looked, and he said they look fine...well i told him to change the battery and terminals, he did, and replaced the ground wire for the negative terminal and now its been running fine since (3 weeks ago)

hopefully this helped...





OT:

cmckenna, do you by any chance have that info on engine treatmets? i was really interested in that when you mentioned it
 

Last edited by 95RAM360; Feb 17, 2010 at 11:16 AM.
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by 95RAM360
my buddy just had a similar problem..i think you may remember the few threads i made about it....wll he had the battery tested, and it was fine they said....well i asked how the terminals looked, and he said they look fine...well i told him to change the battery and terminals, he did, and replaced the ground wire for the negative terminal and now its been running fine since (3 weeks ago)

hopefully this helped...





OT:

cmckenna, do you by any chance have that info on engine treatmets? i was really interested in that when you mentioned it
S..t, I totally forgot. Expect a PM today.

CM
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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CMC - Thanks for all the good info EVAP system is like reading chinese to me but I get the point gonna check the canisters and such for cracked lines and the purge valve.

It isn't dying I don't have that issue it was an issue of going out to start the truck, turn the key and the whole truck just looses power only happens sporadically and then if you touch the negative cable boom it comes back to life and works flawlessly. It is a pretty crappy battery, I cleaned the terminals but they still look pretty rough, think I am gonna replace the battery cables and probably the battery.........Optima here I come!!
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 04:32 PM
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Hey CM where the hell did you find that aircleaner and that's a bigass bolt holding it on
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by yakkier
Hey CM where the hell did you find that aircleaner and that's a bigass bolt holding it on
LOL, what that is: It's a CAI and, it's a 15MM nut that I can wrench tighter than finger tight so that it's sealed good at the TB.

CM
 
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Old Feb 17, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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Gotcha lol
 
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