I'm the original owner of a 2001 Ram 1500 4x4 "Off Road Edition" with 173K miles (almost exclusively highway miles). I don't drive it much anymore. Over the past couple of years I've been noticing pinging during acceleration and increased oil consumption. Lately these problems have gotten worse and I've been noticing a puff of black smoke at start up sometimes. I've also have been noticing what seem to be vacuum problems like the AC cuts out when I accelerate and when I start the truck I can hear a flap shut in the A/C system. So I finally jumped into the intake and plenum gasket replacement.
I've read a lot of posts on the forum and some other resources. The TSB seemed to imply the plenum gasket issue was resolved in models after 1999. In my case, the issue may have been a leaky throttle body gasket but I went ahead an pulled the intake and plenum. The throttle body gasket was definitely leaking. The intake gaskets were metal and looked good for the mileage. The plenum gasket could have been leaking. It was hard to tell -- some was stuck to the plenum, some was stuck to the intake. There was a lot of carbon on the intake and plenum and especially on the throttle body. I went through three cans of brake cleaner getting the carbon and burnt oil cleaned off.
I'm ready to start the reassembly but am looking for some reassurance.
1. Should I use a thin film of high temperature RTV on:
a. The Plenum to intake gasket?
b. The intake to block gaskets? (I know to use a good bead at the corners where the gaskets meet).
c. At the throttle body to intake gasket?
All are Felpro gaskets.

2. Some debris fell into the engine when I was removing the intake. I cleaned it out the best I could manually and with a shop vac and compressed air. I'm planning to flush the water jackets with the water hose once I get the intake back on and I'm planning to pour some Sea Foam in the oil, run it for maybe 15-20 mins, then drain the coolant, oil and change the oil filter. Will this be sufficient to get rid of any contaminates that got into the engine?

3. I chased all the threads and cleaned them with brake parts cleaner. I cut the heads off four intake bolts to use as studs to align and help position the intake. I'm using all new intake bolts but the old plenum bolts. I'm planning to use high-temperature/medium strength Loctite on all the bolts. Of course I'll be following the torque patterns and specs. Does anybody see any problems here?

4. I'm also doing a tune up (new cap, rotor, spark plugs and cables, air filter, PCV) and replacing coolant hoses and the belt. I'll be replacing the Intake Air Temperature sensor because I broke it. I noticed a couple of vacuum lines/hose that are cracked that I'll be replacing. Is there anything else I should replace "while I'm there"?
5. I disconected the injectors from the fuel rail but left them in the manifold. Is there any reason I should pull them? Replace the o-rings? Replace the injectors?

6. Is there a PCV valve on each valve cover. It looks like it but the guy at O'Rieles said the computer only showed one. Is one a PCV valve and the other one something else?

 

I just finished mine on friday, also an 01. I used RTV on the plenum gasket, although general consensus seems to bo not to use it. It's ok to use it on the intake gaskets, and like you said on the corners. Sounds like you will get everything cleaned up with the flushing you describe.
I went ahead and changed the timing chain on my truck. Easy enough to do, just make sure you rent the puller from autozone for the balancer. There is only 1 pcv valve, on the driver side valve cover

 

Welcome to DF!


The issue was not fixed after 1999. Mine was leaking like none-other until I replaced it, and I also own a 2001.

Some say yes, some say nay. I did not, however, others have and have not reported issues yet. Hughes used to tell people not to do it, but evidently now they are saying its OK to do it. I don't think it'll matter, but if you have it, go for it.

I'd say yes, but I am by no means an expert. I'd let others on here comment on that procedure before proceeding, others more experienced with the internal workings of our engines than I.

Do not use the old bolts for the plenum plate, that is considered by many to be the problem (the rest say its the plate itself). If you use the same plenum plate and bolts, you're asking for a repeat of this later. If you can deal with the wait, order the plenum plate (comes with bolts) from APS Precision or Hughes. Guaranteed to fix the issue, rather than just the symptom, as it comes with not only a new aluminum plate (old one is steel), but new bolts as well.

Not that I can think of, but others here will chime in if you and I missed something.

I'd only replace the injectors if they test bad. Replacing the o-rings never hurts.

 

I just finished replacing my plenum gasket with the hughes replacement kit..took about 8 hours to do and only ran into a few issues, such as breaking an intake bolt. My truck (99 ram 1500 5.9l) now runs great, but I was wondering why on the DIY thread tells you to remove the fuel rails and injectors...it doesn't seem like you need to and i didn't...just wondering...

 

1. Should I use a thin film of high temperature RTV on:
a. The Plenum to intake gasket?
felpro probably says not to. you can if you want, as long as its not a rubber gasket.

b. The intake to block gaskets? (I know to use a good bead at the corners where the gaskets meet).
i would not.

c. At the throttle body to intake gasket?
no. next time you take it off, you don't want to have to scape that **** off and have it fall into the plenum.


2. Some debris fell into the engine when I was removing the intake. I cleaned it out the best I could manually and with a shop vac and compressed air. I'm planning to flush the water jackets with the water hose once I get the intake back on and I'm planning to pour some Sea Foam in the oil, run it for maybe 15-20 mins, then drain the coolant, oil and change the oil filter. Will this be sufficient to get rid of any contaminates that got into the engine?
i would pour a quart of diesel or kerosene down in the lifter valley and let it drain to the pan, and then change the oil PRIOR to startup. that way you don't suck up gasket flakes or leaves onto the pickup screen, where they might not turn loose.


3. I chased all the threads and cleaned them with brake parts cleaner. I cut the heads off four intake bolts to use as studs to align and help position the intake. I'm using all new intake bolts but the old plenum bolts. I'm planning to use high-temperature/medium strength Loctite on all the bolts. Of course I'll be following the torque patterns and specs. Does anybody see any problems here?
i would NOT use locktight on the intake bolts. i would put on a little anti-sieze.
everything else is good.

4. I'm also doing a tune up (new cap, rotor, spark plugs and cables, air filter, PCV) and replacing coolant hoses and the belt. I'll be replacing the Intake Air Temperature sensor because I broke it. I noticed a couple of vacuum lines/hose that are cracked that I'll be replacing. Is there anything else I should replace "while I'm there"?
replace coolant sensor(s) and t-stat (use Stant Superstat)

5. I disconected the injectors from the fuel rail but left them in the manifold. Is there any reason I should pull them? Replace the o-rings? Replace the injectors?
there are o-rings at the top and the bottom. if you disturb the rail (NO NEED TO), i'd just remove them and replace them all. felpro makes a nice set. don't replace injectors unless you have a serious problem. they're real expensive.

6. Is there a PCV valve on each valve cover. It looks like it but the guy at O'Rieles said the computer only showed one. Is one a PCV valve and the other one something else?
one side is PCV and the hose attaches to the intake manifold. the opposite side is just a vent and it attaches to the breather. this establishes the air flow through the engine.

good luck.

 

Thanks for the input.
I was planning on replacing the thermostat--just forgot to mention it.
I like the idea of rinsing the lifter valley with diesel and draining the oil before starting the engine. I'll plan on replacing the o-rings on the injectors. I'll check the ohms on the injectors just to be sure they're ok.
I thought about changing out the timing chain, water pump and of course the front main seal (which has been leaking since about 60K miles) but that's all resonably accessible later.
I'll probably use the Loctite on the intake bolts unless there is a compelling reason not to. I've been using it on exhaust bolts and it works well. It keeps the bolts tight and protects them from rusting. I've never had a problem getting them loose using the medium strength.
I'm off work Tuesday and Wednesday and I'm hoping to get it running then.