Hey folks, new forum member here. I am replacing the water pump on my sons '98 1500. I noticed a steel tube coming from the water pump on the drivers side that attaches to a heater hose. It looks like this steel tube is press fit into the WP. Will this steel tube wiggle out easily from the old pump, and should I use gasket sealent when installing it into the new waterpump ??

Thanks in advance !

 

When I replaced my pump, the new one came with the tube already installed. I have not put any RTV on that hose (upper bypass hose) and have no leaks. i would get a new hose (like $3) cause it would suck to put it all back together and find out you put a tiny hole in the hose. Also, lube the o-ring on that tube that comes out of the drivers side of the wp with some coolant.

 

Thanks, you answered my question. I was referring to the tube you mentioned that has the o-ring on it. I did notice a new o-ring came with the new WP, so now I know where that goes......

 

the tube is called the heater hose pipe. its not pressed in under pressure - its just pushed in with hand pressure and an o-ring. some new water pumps will come with a new pipe, others don't. if yours doesn't come with a new pipe, the old pipe should come out of the old pump with a good hard yank, unless, its got cancer and rot. if so, then you'll need to buy a new pipe. they're not too expensive, a few bucks.

its easily replaceable with the pump mounted on the engine, so its not a big worry.

the BIG worry is to be sure and replace the water pump bypass hose on the back/under side of the pump when you replace the pump.

 

Thanks, I will definately replace the WP bypass hose.

My son does not have an FSM for this truck. Can someone please tell me what the torque spec. is for the WP bolts ?

Thanks...

 

Im sure there is a torque, but I just tightened them up in a criss cross pattern. Maybe someone else can chime in with a torque. I thought you were talkin about the upper bypass hose...after I reread it I figured out which one u were talking about. It just wiggles out. Might have to rotate it a little and use a penetrating oil on it.

 

torque is 30 lbs on water pump and timing cover.

 

Thanks again for your input. I'll just snug'em down good and tight without doing a King Kong torque job....

One other question.... Can you remember if the fan clutch is standard thread or reverse thread.... I am assuming it is standard thread, so that to loosen, I will turn the fan clutch nut counter clockwise... I just don't want to be tightening this damn thing and thinking I am loosening it..

 

Its standard. Righty tighty lefty loosy. I just used some vise grips on it, since I didnt have a big enough wrench. Trick I learned the hard way is to take it off before you take the belt off, or else its a SOB to try and keep it from spinning. Another good idea, is to take the fan shroud off...opens up about a foot of space to work with...but I also did my timing chain when I did my water pump, so it was worth it for me.

Also, welcome to the forum!!

 

you might need a tool like this to hold the water pump pulley still. since they don't have bolts on the front anymore, there's nothing to hold onto. this has two studs that go into the empty holes on the pulley. see if you can rent one at your parts store. the other alternative is a strap wrench, but this is better.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis44180.html


i had neither, and ended up unbolting water pump with fan attached. then lifted out wp, fan, and shround all at once.