You could weld it on, but how are your rotors might be worth it to just get new rotors while your at it

 

I had the same issue. Two nights ago, driving on a rough road, felt like I had a blow out. When I got off, one tire was straight the other was turned in. Tierods. However, when my mechanic took the truck - he found that I (really) bent the steer raft. I had noticed my truck starting to pull to the right and my power steering fluid was getting low. I had the pump replaced six months ago. We thought I had a rack leak, but it was actually the steering rack. Perhaps you should check the steering rack. good luck.

 

Well, I assume the rotor must come off for this, as there is no where for them to enter or exit with it on.
Correct ?

 

Get a new stud and spacer washer and impact it and suck it down flush till it seats, NO????????

 

Answered my own question - Yes, the rotor needs to come out to change studs ,,, Though it looks like it just may be possible to do it with the rotor on, and the brake assembly off.
Anyone know how that outer bearing ring, if such it is called, comes out ? Doesn't appear to be anything wrong with it, but since I got a new one I'd like to put it in.



Shaft, looking none the worse for the wear.



Confined spaces - Not much room on my little slab, you can barely see the reason my garage is unavailable - My 68 Firebird, getting ready for spring, has 1st dibs on it.
As you can see, I busted the plastic guard jacking up the truck.

 

That could be a major problem. Might wanna get that checked

 

Ha nice, gotta love 2wds

 

Well, I got 5 kids and more on the way, so apparently I don't shoot too many blanks.

 

good lord wrap that thing

 

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