Help me!!!!!!
Mine does the same thing. It's newer and has OBII but, it might be the same issue. What modifications have you done? I ask because I've installed headers. Occasionally I have to retighten the bolts that hold the header down. When ever I do this the hesitation problem goes away. I also notice that if I replace the O2 sensor when it get really bad the problem gets better. So my best guess on your truck would be the O2 sensor is bad but you might have an exhaust leak. When you push down on the gas the truck is running extremly rich. Thats why it's cutting out. you can verify this by smelling your exhaust.
yes it smells like its running very rich even when i start the truck it smells rich ill check the header bolts, its the stock manifolds at least they look stock i havent done anything to the truck since i bought it but what it has is dual exhaust, 3 inch suspension lift and 3 inch body lift and a ram air hood with a k&n filter
I know that it sounds retarded but, look under your dash for the OBII connector. If it's there take it to a parts store and tell them you have a 96. I work at advance auto and I've seen it before. Someone will come in with a 95 and either it has all of the equipment a 96 would or the manufactures decided to jump on the OBII band wagon early. I've seen hondas, fords, and a Chevy that I was able to scan even though it was a 95. So check for the connector if it's there ask them to try it or tell them it's a 96. Also with the CEL being on I would say 80% chance it's the O2 sensor. The bolts don't come loose on the stock manifolds and I haven't heard of to many of them cracking. You can tell you have an exhaust leak because you'll hear a popping noise. Kinda like having a playing card in the spoke of a bike. You might not hear all of the time. On my truck I could only hear during certain temperature ranges.
Might be worth the while to buy a reader, can probably take it back for a refund when done.
Since murrays morphed into Oreillys they no longer scan codes in my area at all, I took a 95 to autozone a couple weeks ago to get a code read, it was about 6 pm with a light drizzle.
I asked the guy to check my codes, he said they won't go out in the rain, or after 5 pm. Won't be going back there for anything any time soon.
Since murrays morphed into Oreillys they no longer scan codes in my area at all, I took a 95 to autozone a couple weeks ago to get a code read, it was about 6 pm with a light drizzle.
I asked the guy to check my codes, he said they won't go out in the rain, or after 5 pm. Won't be going back there for anything any time soon.
check the fuel pressure. THe haynes manual lists what PSI it should be. I will post it later tonight when i get home. i have a chiltons and haynes manual (chiltons is better for wire diagrams).
All you need is a fuel pressure gauge that goes into the bung on the drint drivers side of the fuel rail. Then you get the pressure at 3/4 turn, and the poressure when running. That will tell you if it is the fuel pump. If that checks out, it might be the fuel relay switch.
Could also be the evap canister.
Just get the haynes manual, and go throught the troubleshooting on the fuel pressure, evap canister. Then you are left with ignition and cat. Ignition is simple, inspect the spark plugs, cap and rotor. I don't know how you check the cat. But save that for the last possible thing. Remember, do not replace anything unless you see they are damaged or not functional. Don't just change the cap rotor and plugs without inspection.
--Dan
All you need is a fuel pressure gauge that goes into the bung on the drint drivers side of the fuel rail. Then you get the pressure at 3/4 turn, and the poressure when running. That will tell you if it is the fuel pump. If that checks out, it might be the fuel relay switch.
Could also be the evap canister.
Just get the haynes manual, and go throught the troubleshooting on the fuel pressure, evap canister. Then you are left with ignition and cat. Ignition is simple, inspect the spark plugs, cap and rotor. I don't know how you check the cat. But save that for the last possible thing. Remember, do not replace anything unless you see they are damaged or not functional. Don't just change the cap rotor and plugs without inspection.
--Dan
I know that it sounds retarded but, look under your dash for the OBII connector. If it's there take it to a parts store and tell them you have a 96. I work at advance auto and I've seen it before. Someone will come in with a 95 and either it has all of the equipment a 96 would or the manufactures decided to jump on the OBII band wagon early. I've seen hondas, fords, and a Chevy that I was able to scan even though it was a 95. So check for the connector if it's there ask them to try it or tell them it's a 96. Also with the CEL being on I would say 80% chance it's the O2 sensor. The bolts don't come loose on the stock manifolds and I haven't heard of to many of them cracking. You can tell you have an exhaust leak because you'll hear a popping noise. Kinda like having a playing card in the spoke of a bike. You might not hear all of the time. On my truck I could only hear during certain temperature ranges.



