The heavy metals like zddp are what they cut down for sm grade oil....maybe thats what your referring to when you say sulfer .... they did this for emmissions and also the fact that it makes o2 sensors and cats fail....modern roller tappet engines arent supposed to need it anyway. if you have no 02 sensors or cats you have nothing to worry about..... Do desiels have these to worry about? and while I think I understand what you are trying to say your comparing apples to oranges when you talk about mopar suggesting their brand over others....we arent talking about brand we were talking about type of oil....

and purp I assume my truck has a shift kit ....If I punch it i see close to 4000 rpm's before shifting sometimes.... If you want to run heavy oils formulated for non gasoline engines thats fine ...same with thick oils....
Just think for a minute about how much trouble some of you go through to squeeze a couple extra bits of performance out of the truck and then you turn right around and use a power robbing lower grade oil designed for something else (for all intensive purposes the protection and lubrication of the formentioned oil is less than the correct type and lighter oiler in our engines)... your going a step backwards even if you have no cat or sensors to foul up..
when I ran heavier oil in my aircooled engine it ran almost 20 degrees hotter...that proved to me their was a difference...before I read a lengthy thread on motor oils...

 

We are on a forum for 1990s Dodge Ram Trucks, not 10 second drag cars. Your theory about "Squeezing every bit of power out of these engines" does not apply.

 

Exactly, its an 80 horsepower air cooled engine. The results of using a heavier oil will be seen whereas in a 190 horsepower water cooled V8 will not.

 

?? what?.... guess no one here uses tuners like sct or fastman throttle bodies or 180degree stats or any other performace mod??.. and many here do take their trucks to the strip ....my "theory" still applies....its free extra power? Your arguement is weak your ignoring all the important facts Im trying to explain..Why not run a blown plenum and dextron in the tranny it will still run and many have it already right?

 

Put every bolt on known to man on these magnum motors and you'll still have a snail powered truck. They weigh too much and the motors don't make enough in factory form to see the point.

I never once said in anyplace that we should blatantly ignore a manufacturer's recommendation on something, but what I am saying is that there can be perfectly acceptable variations to the producer's "rule of thumb"

Case in point- What grade gas do you run in your lovely truck???? If you run 87, you're going against everything you stand for as Dodge says 89 is preferred. Just as they say MOPAR 10w-30 is the preferred oil along with a MOPAR filter.... Both of those items change just as I said before.

I can accept that my application doesn't fit all scenarios, but can you accept that your ideals don't either?

 

Laramie I do know what your trying to say....but what im trying to say is unlike running 87 octane gas which may just cause pinging in certain circumstances, running a heavy oil formula designed specifically for a diesel may have negitive impact on the life and running quality of a modern (obdII) engine....desiel engines are designed with very high compression and the byproduct from burnt diesel fuel that will eventually be saturated by the oil is different than in a gas engine....when they create oil formulas and the additives they keep this stuff in mind...also cat converters and the o2 sensors can be plugged up and effected by these additives that arent supposed to be in a modern obdII gas engine...that the point I was really trying to make...Thats also why some oil additives can mess them up as well
Everyone keeps assuming all 50w oil is for diesels which of course is not true...I used rotella t 5w -40 and its gasoline engine auto oil...All the heavy oil will usually do is make the engine work harder and depending on the engine it can cause oil cooling problems and yes even filtering problems until hot enough to thin out.
In either case their is no real benefit to using it as it has no advantages a bottle of motor honey wouldnt have to help half *** fix a leak and its usually the same cost as a noname oil of the proper weight and viscosity...(if your using diesel oil this means the noname oil will likely have an even better additive package for your truck.) The additives are the only difference between cheap and expensive oils of the same weight and viscosity but they can make a big difference.

 

Um.... Pinging is detrimental fyi.

As for O2 sensors and the catalytic, I could care less. Mine has been gutted and I have a sim in the front bank. No sniffer tests in Missouri. And no, I didn't find this to be a problem after running the rotella. The emissions mod was done way before I even got my truck.

Even still, I don't think it's really something get worried about.

And your point about extra wear and flow issues until the motor is warm can be thrown out the window too. As I said before, the standard in days of old was 50w. Yes, you can use the "modern OBDII" remark again, but I might remind you that there is no way that our motors can be considered modern. They are a left over design from the late 60's and have changed very little since the date of their revealing.

Oil shouldn't be this complicated. Run what you think works best and others will do the same. Again, I have laid the offer down saying that anyone that wants to compare wear samples is more than welcome to.