I bought a big, old Chris Craft and now I need to go get it. I'll be towing it a little over 1,100 miles and the boat weights 6500 pounds, putting it right at the limit of the Ram 1500.
I've done a lot of routine mainance ont the truck to get ready but the truck has 174K miles and is 10 years old so I'm a little concerned. I'm breaking the towing part of the trip up into at least two days. Of course I'll be taking basic tools to deal with any minor problems but my main cerncern is if the tranny throws craps. What would be the best move? Head to the dealer for a new one, quick? Any other ideas?
Here's what has been done within the last year; any other preventive suggestions?
New belt, hoses, plugs, cap, rotor, plug cables, Intake coolant senor, MAP sensor, plenum gasket, O2 sensors, air filter, and shocks. Cleaned throttle body. Brakes and tires are good. Fresh oil, coolant, front and rear axel oil, xfer case fluid. Tranny is still in spec but I'm thinking of getting the fluid and filter changed and bands done. I've got a connection that could analyze the tranny fluid for wear metal and maybe give me an idea how it's tolding up.
Any thoughts?

 

Brake assist for the trailer.

Also, bring a new belt and idler pulley.

Do you have the heavy duty cooling package (the EXTERNAL tranny cooler). If not, I would DEFFINITELY put one on. about 50 bucks. or you can get something at a junkyard for about half that.

YOu will be driving with OD off, so you will need the external cooler.

--Dan

 

Also, congrats on getting a Chris Craft. They are really nice!!!

 

you need to put the biggest, baddest, RV type external trans cooler that you can find.
you need to change the trans fluid and filter at least once, maybe twice before you do this.
you need to verify that your hitch, draw bar, ball are all rated that heavy, and that your ball height is either correct, or adjustable.
you need to determine the tongue wt of this monster, and see if you need helper springs or timbrens to prevent excessive rear end sag and front end lift.

you need to investigate the trailer brake system so you can stop that SOB.
you need to monitor your transmission temp, as thats typically what leads to failure.

finally - don't tow in OD, and be thinking about what you'll do if/when your trans fails. you can get them rebuilt to very heavy duty conditions. they just don't come that way stock.

 

Thanks for the feedback--keep it coming!
Belt has less than 200 miles on it but I'll take the old one as a back up. I'll pick up a spare idler pulley.
The truck has the factory towing package which included a transmission fluid cooler. If that's not enough, please let me know, quickly.
The first 3-400 miles may have some hills, after that, it's pretty flat (orginating near Augusta, GA, towing to Central Texas--towing mostly at 100-500 ft elevation from Mobile, AL to almost home and 500-900 ft the last 200 miles--nice and gentle).
I've got a 5000# hitch with 2" ball on the truck now but will be picking up a weight distributing hitch this week with 2-5/8 or 2-7/8 ball, can't remember; the hitch frame on the truck is rated 10K with weight distributing hitch).
I'll level it and adjust it properly to make sure the load is balanced over the entire truck and trailer. The trailer has three axles and has surge brakes.
I got the boat on e-bay by tossing out a "we'll see bid" and I ended up winning--I can't believe I got it for the price--my bid was really low. I love those old wooden boats. It's solid mahogany. Even repairing any rot, repainting, and re-powering with say a couple of Cummins and velvet drives, I'll be ahead (I don't think it needs repowering now but it's got the original 1962, 283s in it).
Thanks for the advise, keep it coming!!!

 

Change the oil and gear fluid to Synthetic.

 

check/repack boat trailer wheel bearings.

have you seen this. its an easy way to get bids on hauling.
http://www.uship.com/boats/
looks like a big boat can be hauled 1000 miles for about $1000-1500

 

i agree with Purpl...i use Castrol ATF+4 full synthetic in my tranny and xfer case...

Heres a list of ATF4's licensed by Mopar. If its not on this list dont get it.


Licensed ATF+4 Brand Names

Advance Auto Parts ATF+4®
Carquest ATF+4®
Castrol ATF+4®
Chevron ATF+4®
Citgo Transgard ATF+4®
Coastal ATF+4®
Conklin ATF-Xtra Plus ATF+4®
Formula Shell ATF+4®
Great Wall ATF+4®
Havoline ATF+4®
MAG 1 ATF+4®
Mobil ATF+4®
Mobil Super ATF+4®
Mopar ATF+4®
MotoMaster ATF+4®
NAPA ATF+4®
Northland ATF+4®
O’Reilly ATF+4®
Parts Master ATF+4®
Parts Plus ATF+4®
Pennzoil ATF+4®
Petro-Canada ATF+4®
Quaker State ATF+4®
Ravenol ATF+4®
Sinopec ATF+4®
Super Tech ATF+4®
Texamatic DC ATF+4®
Ultramax ATF+4®
Valvoline ATF+4®

 

Thanks. I've got Mopar 75w-90 in the front axle and Mopar Synthetic 75w140 in the rear (of course with the friction modifier). The manual recommended 75w-140 for heavy towing. I told the Dodge service tech what I was up to and he said the 75w-90 was fine for the front axle.
The transfer case and transmission have Mopar ATF+4.
I haven't switched to synthetic motor oil and really don't intend to unless there is a compelling reason. I've always used Castrol GTX motor oil and right now it's got 10w40 in it.
The trailer is brand new and I'll grease the bearings with Shell Retinax Extream Pressure/High temp grease when I pick it up.
Thanks again.

 

Hey guy I am a little Leary on the weight that you have for that boat, A tri axle trailer is for 10,000lbs and over. If this is a cabin cruiser over 24' with a 8' beam and twin 283 It will be over your towing capacity. I would have it weighed before you go. Like posted above put a listing on upship and set a max price you can probably have it moved for you for about $600, that way you don't kill your truck.