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Worse Ujoint you'll ever see ...

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  #11  
Old 04-05-2010 | 12:38 AM
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That U-Joint is mint
 
  #12  
Old 04-05-2010 | 12:40 AM
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VW & his sassy mouth never seem to be far behind.

They are identical parts, the extra $5 each is for the lifetime warranty.
This truck is not going to last all that long, you got $$ to **** away on premium parts for everything thats you, I don't.
These will last the lifetime of the truck, 99% certain. The extra $15 I might just as well gave to a wino on the street than stuff it into Murrays cash register.

Sure, you can get better anything anytime, just a matter if you are inclined to pony up or not.
For an advanced aged 200,000 + mile truck, cheap ones will do just fine, thank you very much.
 

Last edited by xray99; 04-05-2010 at 12:49 AM.
  #13  
Old 04-05-2010 | 01:23 AM
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lol, is there a certain torque these need to be or just good-n-tight? i need to do some on my g/fs moms chevy
 
  #14  
Old 04-05-2010 | 04:36 AM
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I had one all but explode doing about 70 a couple months back. It sheared all but 1 of the cups off, like all the way to the joint and the last one twisted it's way around and wedged itself in the yoke on the rear diff. It took me almost an hour just to get the old shaft out. All in the wet grass off the highway on the rain while on my way to work.
 
  #15  
Old 04-05-2010 | 08:03 AM
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ouch....im surprised that held up lol
 
  #16  
Old 04-05-2010 | 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by xray99
VW & his sassy mouth never seem to be far behind.

They are identical parts, the extra $5 each is for the lifetime warranty.
This truck is not going to last all that long, you got $$ to **** away on premium parts for everything thats you, I don't.
These will last the lifetime of the truck, 99% certain. The extra $15 I might just as well gave to a wino on the street than stuff it into Murrays cash register.

Sure, you can get better anything anytime, just a matter if you are inclined to pony up or not.
For an advanced aged 200,000 + mile truck, cheap ones will do just fine, thank you very much.
Identical? Yeah, right. Did the one(s) you buy come from China, while the more expensive part(s) come from the US? If so, they are very much different. When I replaced my U-Joints, I was given a mix, meaning one from China and one from the US. The Chinese U-Joint was Thirty-thousandths too large for the yoke. I returned it and then discovered I wasn't given the parts I specifically asked for and happily paid for the difference.

Maybe some day you'll learn to pay once and cry once and that the word is "Quality" and not "Kwality"; however, today doesn't look like that day.
 
  #17  
Old 04-05-2010 | 02:00 PM
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They aren't that expensive, you got robbed a bit, there. Search online, the internet is a wonderful place.

Try Randys Ring and Pinion to start.
 
  #18  
Old 04-05-2010 | 02:05 PM
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I believe the correct P/N for the driveshaft is 5-790x but I'm stuck on my phone right now so its hard to check since most all websites use a form of flash that isn't supported by mobile browsers
 
  #19  
Old 04-05-2010 | 02:11 PM
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Ill add that I don't like greaseable U joints for the driveshaft as the grease zerk creates a weakness in one side of the joint, and I've heard some guys complain it introduces a bit of wobble into the driveline if both zerks get installed on the same side of the driveshaft in either end. Not sure how true that last one is though.
 
  #20  
Old 04-05-2010 | 02:47 PM
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there is something to be said about cheaper parts though; frankly, when i was looking for trackbars i had a problem with buying a 'premium' aftermarket track bar that was worth more than the truck.

some of us aim to fix our vehicles so they're road worthy again; thats all to be honest...... and works for many people.

just curious if you're sure your ujoints are made in the US; aren't most parts made in mexico just south of the border?
 



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