DIY- Trans Tempurature Gauge Install (mechanical)
This is a writeup of what I did to install my Trans Temp Gauge in my 95 Ram 1500.
The gauge I used is a Mechanical Sunpro Oil/Water Temp. It was 17.99 at Advance Auto.
You will also need a Temp sending unit extension, Brass Tee, and 2 Brass compression fittings. Not sure of the size but the part numbers on the reciept are
-WEA 3700x6= $8.18
-WEA 68x6x6= $2.67
-ATM 2271= $13.99
Before you start, it might be easier to remove the line completely and do this on a bench, Otherwise you'll look like you are bleeding to death everytime you come out from under the truck. And don't forget to run your sending unit through to the place you want to install it first that way you know it will reach and will keep trans fluid from getting on the carpet. OOPS!

After finding a place to cut a section out of the line that I wanted to run the tee, I installed it using the compression fittings and then Threading the sending unit into the Tee. I used Thead sealer on all but the compression sets themselves. You may want to run the tee on the other line for the out-line to cooler. I plan on running two so I did the easiest one first.
This is where I installed it.

As for the gauge I found a good place on the center of the dash. For the light in the gauge, I spliced into the heater switch light which was the top most connector on the plug behind the heater switch unit. I beleive it was an orange or red wire.

I know you may be thinking that the gauge is in the way of the 4wheel shifter but it slips right past it, besides, this is only temporary until I throw down for the pillar setup.
Hope this helps some of you who like the mechanical as opposed to the electronic gauges. I find these to be more accurate.
The gauge I used is a Mechanical Sunpro Oil/Water Temp. It was 17.99 at Advance Auto.
You will also need a Temp sending unit extension, Brass Tee, and 2 Brass compression fittings. Not sure of the size but the part numbers on the reciept are
-WEA 3700x6= $8.18
-WEA 68x6x6= $2.67
-ATM 2271= $13.99
Before you start, it might be easier to remove the line completely and do this on a bench, Otherwise you'll look like you are bleeding to death everytime you come out from under the truck. And don't forget to run your sending unit through to the place you want to install it first that way you know it will reach and will keep trans fluid from getting on the carpet. OOPS!

After finding a place to cut a section out of the line that I wanted to run the tee, I installed it using the compression fittings and then Threading the sending unit into the Tee. I used Thead sealer on all but the compression sets themselves. You may want to run the tee on the other line for the out-line to cooler. I plan on running two so I did the easiest one first.
This is where I installed it.

As for the gauge I found a good place on the center of the dash. For the light in the gauge, I spliced into the heater switch light which was the top most connector on the plug behind the heater switch unit. I beleive it was an orange or red wire.

I know you may be thinking that the gauge is in the way of the 4wheel shifter but it slips right past it, besides, this is only temporary until I throw down for the pillar setup.
Hope this helps some of you who like the mechanical as opposed to the electronic gauges. I find these to be more accurate.
Last edited by mnewbolds; Apr 10, 2010 at 02:55 PM.
It's holding great, the temp got up to around 160 today after 5 miles of driving at 70mph. I think that has alot to do with the new radiator I put in a few months ago. It also is on the cool side of the lines. I will be running another on the hot side just to keep track.
After It was done I realized I forgot to seal the threads on the sending unit. My mistake!
After It was done I realized I forgot to seal the threads on the sending unit. My mistake!
at the very least, could be as high as ~200, on the hot side. As long as it stays under 230 on the hot side, your doing ok. Ive got a few transmissions ive built for guys in chevy drag cars and they run about 230 on a 1/8 mile pull. They run high stall converters which slip more = more heat.
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We'll see what it looks like when I pull something. Plus I have a 240 mile drive to Illinois coming up. Last time I made the trip I noticed it was jerking when I let off the gas and the tc lockup engaged and when I got back into it. Seemed to only do it when i've bee driving for a while.
Well heres an update, The compression fitting failed and I ended up walking 12 miles round trip to menards and pepboys. Had to buy a 12" piece of rubber fuel line to get me home. So, I'm not sure if I want to buy a new cooler line all together, or rig some pieces together and risk it. I'm having trouble finding the right line to replace it. Unless new line only goes to fitting by the bottom of the rad. And the steel line from there to the rad. is seperate?
These are the pn# I found.
Napa-BK 8275348=$38.82
Advance Auto-624-335=$42.99
Are these the right ones?
These are the pn# I found.
Napa-BK 8275348=$38.82
Advance Auto-624-335=$42.99
Are these the right ones?
Last edited by mnewbolds; Apr 11, 2010 at 02:03 PM.



