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Old 08-05-2015, 01:58 PM
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Brake Drum to Disc Conversion

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  #21  
Old 04-26-2010 | 11:02 PM
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If he doesnt have to pay for it, its worth it
 
  #22  
Old 04-27-2010 | 03:10 AM
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Dude, before you spend 900 bucks on rear disc check out this kit http://www.tsmmfg.com/2551_94.htm I have had this guy's kit on my old power wagon as well many of my friends have run kits from him. Top notch quality and great price.
 
  #23  
Old 08-03-2010 | 08:38 PM
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I did the EGR conversion on the rear and am not happy with the e-brake setup. Could I get an axle/brake setup for the newer dodge trucks from salvage yard that would fit on my 1997 1500 4x4? I also read somewhere that since the rear brakes were originally drum, that it was a low pressure system going to the rear end? To get all of the performance out of the disc setup do you have to change the vacuum master cylinder for one that runs off the power steering pump to up the pressure?
 
  #24  
Old 08-03-2010 | 09:04 PM
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I was going to do it...until I read the directions. Too much for me to mess up. I will just go with really good shoes for the rear. And slotted rotors for the front. Then call it a day.
 
  #25  
Old 08-03-2010 | 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by greg1997truck
I did the EGR conversion on the rear and am not happy with the e-brake setup. Could I get an axle/brake setup for the newer dodge trucks from salvage yard that would fit on my 1997 1500 4x4? I also read somewhere that since the rear brakes were originally drum, that it was a low pressure system going to the rear end? To get all of the performance out of the disc setup do you have to change the vacuum master cylinder for one that runs off the power steering pump to up the pressure?
YOu can read the instructions from summit. You need to tinker with the master cylinder in 1998 and later, but you need a new master cylinder for 1994-1997:
1998 and newer:
"Distribution Block Modification
a) Follow the steel brake line from the smaller bowl of the master cylinder to the brass
distribution block.
b) Use the vise grips or an adjustable wrench to hold the block securely. Then remove
the large nut from end of the distribution block. Make sure you remove the nut from the
half of the block that feeds the rear brakes. Use caution since the nut is spring-loaded!
c) With the nut removed, remove and set aside the spring from inside of the block. Pull
the rubber seal of the piston and set it aside as well.
d) Take the piston and push the larger end into the hole of the end nut that was removed
from the distribution block in Step C. It will snap into place.
e) The end nut can then be threaded back into the block and tightened down. Make sure
to re-install the bolt holding distribution block to the bracket.
NOTE: DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER GO DRY DURING THIS
OPERATION. STOP AND TOP OFF THE MASTER CYLINDER IF NECESSARY
"

1997 and older:
"Master Cylinder (kit A158 only - 1994-97 trucks)
a) The factory master cylinder does not produce enough volume to supply the rear disc
brakes. The factory master cylinder must be replaced with the new high volume unit
that is supplied with the kit.
b) Remove the old master cylinder by disconnecting the steel lines and removing the two
nuts from the studs on the brake booster. The old master cylinder can then be slid out
of the engine compartment.
c) Before the new master cylinder can be installed, it MUST be bench-bled off of the
vehicle in a vise using the bench bleeding kit supplied!
d) After being thoroughly bend-bled the new master cylinder can be installed in the
reverse removal.
A158 & A158-1 Revision 2 2


http://static.summitracing.com/globa...158_a158-1.pdf
 
  #26  
Old 08-04-2010 | 12:23 AM
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Everyone here has a good point in their own right. If your parents are paying for it, then lucky you. But as far as the money goes, I say it is not worth it when that money could to better upgrades.

If you are determined to do the conversion, then get a kit from one the links previously posted. Changing the axle to 3rd gen would be easier, but good luck finding one in the salvage yard, they pretty much don't exist out their yet. Unless you know someone parting out a 3rd gen.

For me, I can tell for sure it is a 2 day PITA to upgrade rear drum brakes. All those springs and brackets...uuuggghhh. (new cylinders, wagner shoes, spring kit, brakes lines) and was my first time on drums.

Do your self a favor and put the Wagner thermo quiet pads on (lifetime warranty) and upgrade the cylinders to a one-ton and you will have excellent rear brakes. If your gonna spend money brakes, personally I would upgrade the fronts (which do majority of braking) with larger slotted and drilled rotors, brembo calipers and quality set of pads. Brembo sells kit to upgrade the whole front brake system...and they are Badazz. Just my
 
  #27  
Old 08-04-2010 | 05:15 AM
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Originally Posted by dhvaughan
just get some performance rotors and pads for the front and do the 1 ton cylinder swap on your rears and call it done.
I just may do that!... lol
 
  #28  
Old 09-17-2011 | 01:21 AM
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Forgive me for my lack of knowledge...when you say swap for 1 ton cylinder swap...is that referring to the cylinders located in the drum assembly itself?
 
  #29  
Old 09-17-2011 | 02:22 AM
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yeah i plan on doing that on my dads 1500. his brakes blow compare to my 2500 hd brakes. mine r solid compared to his. his feel like my old geo metro brakes trying to stop a freight train.......... through the floor.
 
  #30  
Old 09-17-2011 | 03:02 AM
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Oh mine feel like that too lol.
 



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