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CEL - Failed TCC or Overdrive Solenoid

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Old May 5, 2010 | 11:59 PM
  #11  
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I cant get you a price on what the guy i know charges if you want but youll have to send a core to lima ohio..lol. But he builds them for anything from drag cars to wheel standers to everyday drivers... And i have done a hand full of dodges and my own a hand full of times but its not to bad with the right tools. On your back will be no fun but can be done. Whats you plan for removal?

On the converter do you just want it stock stall or do you want something with a little stall to it?
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 01:51 PM
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I think I'll change the filter and fluid, adjust the bands (that's due in about 10K miles anyway) and I'll replace the soleoniod pack. If I get the code again, I'll move on to the torque converter. If I go with something other than off the shelf, I'd lean more toward power than speed.
Do you have a ball park idea on what he would charge for a beefed up TC?
 
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Old May 6, 2010 | 02:28 PM
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Ive seen them from $200 to $800 just depends what all you want done.. Sounds like you just want a factory stall. Thats what i did and it works great. Ill check with him this weekend and get back to yeah.
 
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Old May 11, 2010 | 11:09 PM
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I changed the fluid and filter and cleared the CLE. I also reset the PCM because of the long tow (about 1200 miles over three days). I didn't replace the soleniod pack after all. The CLE hasn't come back on after about 30 miles.
The fluid was kind of burt but not real bad. Just a little dark and smelled a little. There were a couple of metal shaving on the magnet but nothing serious. There was a bit of very fine grey powder or sludge (don't know what else to call it).
I added four quarts of ATF4 and 24 oz of Lucas Transmission Fix to fill it up. The fluid still looks a little dark so I'll drop the pan again after 100 miles and fill it up again with ATF4.
It drives fine on the highway but when I take off, it doesn't give a good firm shift from 1st to 2nd. It shifts arounds 2800 rpms. drops about 500 rpm, then drops a little more, then goes up, then drops down to around 1700 rpm.
I'm thinking this is a good indication the torque conrvert is on the way out or there is a problem with the lockup. (I really don't know a lot about auto trannys.)
So does it sould like the torque converter needs replacing for is there something else I should try?
(edit: the connections and fuses were fine.)
 
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Old May 12, 2010 | 04:56 PM
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Hey I got you a price on a beefed up tc is 250 without shipping. Not sure where your from, but that the price. Not sure what an aftermarket is but I think its pretty cheap for what all he does to them.
 
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Old May 12, 2010 | 05:17 PM
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If it happens to be the torque converter you will need a rebuild, you cannot just replace the TC and expect the tranny to last. When my TC went out there was a ton of metal shavings and that sludge you were talking about. Once that stuff goes through the tranny it will destroy it.
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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If I understand correctly, I'll have to drop the tranny, pull the torque coverter and pay shipping both ways, right? What turn around time can I expect and does he offer a warranty?
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Kraiger
Hey I got you a price on a beefed up tc is 250 without shipping.
"beefed up" gets thrown around loosely here. What exactly does your "beefed up" converter en-tale?
 
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Old May 17, 2010 | 11:35 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Gerehead8
If it happens to be the torque converter you will need a rebuild, you cannot just replace the TC and expect the tranny to last. When my TC went out there was a ton of metal shavings and that sludge you were talking about. Once that stuff goes through the tranny it will destroy it.
I'm hoping I got to the Torque Converter problem quickly enough that it didn't damage the rest of the transmission. There were only 3-4 small metal shavings and not really a lot of sludge. I'll drop the pan at 100 miles and see how things look.
 
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Old May 18, 2010 | 07:47 PM
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Sorry i missed some posts earlyer and havent been on this weekend. The "Beefed" up part is all fins will be furnace brazed, no plastic bushing, all needle roller bearings. You have to take my word but they are way strong. Jamesnb - yes. you'll need to pay for shipping both ways. If you can find one a junk yard you wont need to pull yours right away. Ill have to get a hold of him tomarrow to find out warrenty. I know he has one but what it is im not sure. He stands behind his work though. And turn around id say would be 2 weeks but dont hold me to that.
 
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