On the front, there are very few moving parts, and if the calipers are free, and the piston moves 'easily' (considering you are also trying to compress hydraulic fluid, thru small holes, and it doesn't always wanna go that easy....), just clean the guide pins/bushings rather well, lube 'em up before reinstall, and you are golden.

If the rotors are getting thin, replace 'em. (if you are replacing front pads, you should have them turned. if you have to take them somewhere for that to happen, they will tell you if they are too thin, as they won't cut them... too much liability.)

On the rears, get shoes, and a hardware kit. Kit comes with all the springs, that you will need. If you are feeling really froggy, replace the wheel cylinders..... of course, expect that the brake lines will break off...... and you will have to address that as well. On the cylinders, if they aren't leaking, leave 'em in there.

Drums are the same as rotors, if you replace the shoes, turn the drums, if they are too thin, replace them as well.

There are a couple different schools of thought on whether new drums/rotors need to be turned....... according to popular theory, they shouldn't need it. I have found far too often, that, yes, they do. So, I turn new ones as a matter of course. (just enough to make sure they are indeed flat.) If you have to pay someone else to do it...... Well, then it becomes more optional. I just hate doing brakes, only to have to rip it apart again, and turn the damn rotors/drums. It IS easier the second time.......

Drums are notorious for welding themselves to the axle.... if you find yourself with drums that DO NOT want to come off the axle, get yourself a bfh (big F***ing hammer) and hit the outer edge of the drum at an angle. (parallel to the axle tube, come down and hit the edge of the drum face at an angle. clear as mud?) smack it, turn it, smack it again. Sometimes ya have to get pretty serious with 'em. Some good penetrating lubricant around the axle hole, and lug nut studs doesn't hurt either.

 

So you think I could swap my stock rotors for a set of powerslot rotors? They don't look the same as mine from the picture.

 

link/pic ?

early model 2wd had rotor with hub 94-?
last couple of years 00-01 switched over to 4wd parts - sealed bearing/hubs and slip over rotors.

 

Yes you can put new fansey rotors on. I just get mine cut 60 buck v 250. Yea I'm getting mine cut.

What the ohhhh mid D is still up!!! YOur going to have a long day tomorrow man!

 

If you cab afford it, i'd reccomend the EBC GREENSTUFF 7000 HEAVY DUTY SERIES front pads, i got about 50,000 mile on the pads and i thought i needed to change them, but when i mounted my tires, i prob have about half pad left, and im not easy on em either.. but they are about 110 bucks from summit. well worth it IMO

 

This is what I have


And this is what I want


I am just wondering what covers the bearings and stuff in the middle.

 

That rotor is for a different style. You can find slotted/crossdrilled rotors for your truck at summit, or Jegs. On your truck, the Rotor itself (the swept area that the pads actually grab) is NOT a separate part from the hub. It is all one piece. Look at spending close to 90 bucks a side though...... and you should verify what type of hub/bearing the rotors are designed to use.

 

Thanks HeyYou. I just wanted to make sure that I didn't buy the wrong parts.

 

Remember the picture may be just a reference of what your looking at not actual part if in doubt call them up and make sure its what you need. Most places have decent enough tech people to answer your questions and summit has awesome tech, service, and shipping is quick.

when you get the new rotors and your swapping the bearings over make sure you do a good look over and make sure they are not damaged and then repack

 

Would it be overkill to buy all new bearings and seals and stuff?