Too Many Opinions!!
#21
Oh yea I also know not to touch the ignition wire with my bare hands. Had that prank pulled on me too many times as a kind. Dad was working on the mower hey hold this wire while i pull on the string. ok AHHHHHH That thing shocked me and the Laughed. Know that trick not gonna do that again. Especially with 20kv forget that. Good idea but no.
#22
lol good times good times. Kinda like in high school where for fun they had the stick of "gum" attached to a 9V and when you pulled out the stick it shocked ya. Or taking the igniter out of a gas grill and randomly shock people. Brings back memories. My dad still does those tricks to my younger brothers. Except he uses dirt bikes now.
#23
Ok so I am a complete and udder idiot. I was working with the injectors today cause I didn't get them seated right. After I fixed them so they don't leak and started the truck it had the miss no question. It was obvious it was there. But while I was listening. I heard a spark tick. I started tracking it changing wires and all. I looked at number 7 and saw the wire wobble. Come to find out the number 7 plug worked its self back out of the hole. Tightened it up. Miss gone for sure. Idles totally different I'm sure its gone. But it may come back who knows. But so far 2 days no code. And a ton of key turns. So I hope all is good.
#26
you're having quite a fight with #7 LOL.
i went back up and looked at your first couple of posts..
so everything was fine some time ago, but then it began spitting and sputtering.
so you put in new plugs. you made no comment about the old plugs.
everything was fine for awhile, then threw a p0307.
you found a burned up plug on 7, and replaced it, but it didn't help.
the truck continued to miss until a couple of days ago, when you found a loose plug. now everything is fine.
compression check is very good, except a tad low on 7.
if the electrode of 7 broke off and rattled around a little, it might have scratched up the cylinder wall some. if it burned off gradually, then its probably got nothing to do with it.
115's not that bad. since there's no easy fix, as long as it runs ok, i wouldn't worry about it.
i went back up and looked at your first couple of posts..
so everything was fine some time ago, but then it began spitting and sputtering.
so you put in new plugs. you made no comment about the old plugs.
everything was fine for awhile, then threw a p0307.
you found a burned up plug on 7, and replaced it, but it didn't help.
the truck continued to miss until a couple of days ago, when you found a loose plug. now everything is fine.
compression check is very good, except a tad low on 7.
if the electrode of 7 broke off and rattled around a little, it might have scratched up the cylinder wall some. if it burned off gradually, then its probably got nothing to do with it.
115's not that bad. since there's no easy fix, as long as it runs ok, i wouldn't worry about it.
#27
The old plugs were just a little crusty from the oil before I fixed the plenum. I got the code today. That's why I did the compression checheck. Heard maybe seafoam will help. So gonna try that tomorrow. Yea it has been a real fight but damit I'm gonna win. So I'm gonna try half a bottle of seafoam and let ya kno what happends. Hoping maybe carbon buildup.
#28
Per OEM spec, anything >100psi is considered passing- compression is not your problem - unless, you've got an intermittent valve. Retest five times after turning the engine over each time. Get data from five compression test runs. If it's a valve, you'll see the trend of a pressure drop across the test set.
Test it MIN of five times then gather the data and look at it. Five data points is easy to read. It's either all above 100 or, some below at around 90. If during any one of the five test runs the data point drops below the minimum / lower limit of 100 psi- you've got something to be concerned with and, it's going to be a bad valve.
If you note NO pressure, exclude that from your test and turn the engine over again and retest. Throw a zero reading out. That is a sure sign that the valve is wide open.
CM
Test it MIN of five times then gather the data and look at it. Five data points is easy to read. It's either all above 100 or, some below at around 90. If during any one of the five test runs the data point drops below the minimum / lower limit of 100 psi- you've got something to be concerned with and, it's going to be a bad valve.
If you note NO pressure, exclude that from your test and turn the engine over again and retest. Throw a zero reading out. That is a sure sign that the valve is wide open.
CM