I didn't want to spend 2 weeks doing a camshaft install that i might mess up. So I got the RRs.

And I know, the duration and LSA are what really matters in a cam grind. I am not really looking at price, i am looking at ease. Plus, you factor in all the gaskets you need, new intake bolts, custom tune, wideband AF ratio gauge, headers, intake to match...doing a camshaft is still a bit pricey.

You have to match everything to THAT SPECIFIC camshaft. You would never match a camshaft to heads intake, or tune. But you would go the other way around.

 

If you're matching your heads to your cam you're doing it backwards. Just sayin'.

 

All parts should be matched to what you want the engine to do. High RPM power vs. low end grunt, or anything in between. Decide what you want from your motor, and then select parts accordingly.

 

If the heads can't flow enough air to take advantage of the camshaft, then the camshaft install was a bust

If the heads flow too much, then it won't net you too much power. Love OVERporting your heads.

Maybe we are arguing about the same thing, but to me that is matching the heads to the cam

 

210 is were it at but you lose some power range lower and back that with a macthing TQ stall good deal........ 206 is more in this guy driving power range

talon i would love to have thoses 1.7rr is you ever diside to get a cam(if i got the money)

 

a agree on the 206. sounds about right for him.

gotcha on the 1.7's. they will be for sale. it will be a couple months probably(alot going on right now), but they will be for sale. along with my 3815.

 

Hey I offered first. You can't scoop me on this.

 

hey im not trying to scoop nobody......... talon just said "gotcha"....may gotcha down for 2nd or 100th person in line .... if you need to talk, you can PM me

 

Actually the 210x has a better lobe seperation angle than the 20-604-9. The 210x is at 110 degrees vs the 112 of the 20-604-9. Gives a better torque curve and a more choppy idle.

 

Well, yeah, more or less kinda sorta. My thinking just works the other way around, from the combustion chambers outward in both directions. Starting at any other point can and very frequently does lead to mistakes that are either expensive to fix or annoying to live with.

Admittedly, I am irretrievably biased. The bias began during my muscle car/street racer days when I watched many of my buddies make some tremendous mistakes. For some reason everyone wanted 320 degree cams and dual Holley double-pumpers on tunnel rams atop their big blocks -- and most of them were very expensive spark plug foulers and cylinder wall washers. I don't think a prettier set of taillights than those on the '68 Coronet has ever been made and I was proud to show 'em off to those driving badly built Camaros and Mustangs (and GTOs and 442s, the occasional Pantera, et cetera) .

Anyhow, as long as you end up at the right place it doesn't matter how you got there so we are pretty much saying the same thing: Be sure that the parts you use all work in concert to make power in the range where you want it. Then it's off to continually discover the next weakest link in the system.