I've spent a couple days reading up on the timing cover change. Got all the parts and completed the job last night. New Timing Chain kit as well.

My question is this. Does the new Timing Cover Felpro gasket require RTV?

The old gasket had nothing - which came off easy. The old gasket Port for the water pump on the passenger side failed.

Now, I went ahead and used the gray permatex (made for t-stat and water pump) by applying a thin coat to the cover and block then installed the gasket.

Is this overkill, or even worse, will it affect the gasket performance?

And for what it's worth, if you ever change the water pump, do the timing cover as well. I learned the hard way.

 

The factory doesn't put it on there as a cost saving measure. Sure, just the gasket 'works', but, a little added insurance is more certainly NOT a bad thing. When doing gaskets that seal water/oil/other liquid, a bit of RTV is a good plan. (aside from head gaskets......)

 

+1

I use it when installing them unless the gasket is rubber then you simply put a little grease (just enough to wettin it) on the gasket then bolt it down.

 

Thanks, that makes me feel better. I just pity the next guy ( or myself) that would have to clean it on the next tear down.

 

how was the timing change? thats actually one of the projects going on this weekend. i am replacing WP, timing chain, plenum, etc.

did you have an issue setting the mottor at TDC? what size socket and breaker bar did you use to turn the motor?

from what ive heard just use RTV on all gaskets...better than nothing at all i suppose

 

air gun to remove big bolt on end of crank.
socket size 1-1/4.
reinstall bolt into crank to protect threads when using puller for harmonic balancer.
very light coat of rtv on gaskets will ensure no leaks.

 

+1 on above

You don't have to mess with the timing alignment on the gears. They only go on one way because of the key way. I think when the gears are lined up you are on #6 cylinder TDC.

I used a razor blade on the bottom outer corners to cut the rtv from the oil pan gasket prior to pulling it (TC) off.

My timing chain had so much play in it, kinda glad it happened.

Other tools I used.
Rented an AC pulley puller from AZ. You can adjust the pins to match the water pump pulley holes for fan removal.
Large 3 jaw puller for the damper/crank pulley.
Steering wheel puller for the hamronic balancer.
Medium 2 jaw puller for the Crank gear.

So far so good. And it runs so much better with the chain.

I did notice something weird - but in a good way. My oil pressure was going to real low (cluster warning) at idle after warm up. My oil pressure is now just a smidge under 40 after warm-up. May have been caused by a timing issue with the loose timing chain.

 

you oil pressure has nothing to do with the timing chain, but the fact that the motor is running better, causes the higher oil pressure, your probably idling at a higher RPM now.

 

Did not pay attention to rpm's before and after but you're probably right with the higher idle. It's definitely smoother.

One more thing, when you pull the bolts (first ones under water pump) for the TC, the block will drain coolant. have a floor pan ready to catch it.

 

damn..dont have an air gun. looks like im gonna have to bring the big guns to the gun show...

yeah those pullers, etc i'll rent from AZ tomorrow on my way down to Atlanta...i figured i would re do the oil pan gasket too since i have to loosen the front bolts to get to the timing cover. damn things just keep adding up...oh well