Thanks for the info guys.

I am planning on doing this job this Thursday (Canada day!)... then drinking alot of beer.

This is my plan in summary:
I will replace all lifters, for insurance reasons (I figure 1 bad, others may/may not be close). I will not be replacing cam. I will not be pumping up the lifters before install, but will soak them in oil.

I will not perform a leakdown test on the new lifters (don't have rig). Will follow full factory service manual for procedure.

For those wondering, yes I will be doing the plenum gasket, but not with a Hughes kit, just the Felpro gasket. As far as I can tell from performing the pressure test, and looking down the TB bores, mine is still not leaking.

If anyone has any suggestions, tips, or tricks to add, please feel free. I will be checking this thread a few more times before I start the job, and replying/asking questions as necessary.

I will update my results when I am done the job. Not that anyone will be interested in a simple lifter swap, but mainly because it is a pet peeve of mine when people don't finish threads.

Thanks again for all the help guys!

Cheers,
Chris

 

Get some shorter bolts for the plenum pan, if you are not going with the hughes plate. The factory bolts are too long, thus, the problems you see with the plenum.

 

Shorter plenum pan bolts? This is the first I have heard about this (and I am a world class Dodge Forum lurker!).

Why the shorter bolts, is the new gasket thinner than the old gasket?

Would putting washers on the bolts solve the problem? Would this cause the bolt heads to hit the cylinder heads?

What diameter, length, and pitch is stock, and what length should I replace them with?

Thanks,
Chris

 

According to popular theory, one of the main reasons the plenum pan blows gaskets, is the bolts that hold it in place are a bit to long, so, you can't really torque them to spec, and expect them to do the intended job. (read thru some of the plenum threads, it is mentioned fairly often....) Just putting washers on them would probably be just as affective as getting slightly shorter bolts. I don't have the measurements for them handy right now..... I don't think the added length sticking out would have any detrimental affects at all. Probably work just fine.

 

Thanks for the tip, a few quick seaches confirmed. But I could not find the plenum plate bolt size (stock or shorter)?

Anybody know?

I will try to pick up washers. To find diameter I will measure the hole size of the pan gasket I have, and go a little smaller. But I would like to find shorter bolts too in case the washers do not work for some reason.

Also, I was planning on re-using the intake manifold bolts, but have read that they are TTY. Should I get new ones? Do I need to get these from the dealer?

As far as I can remember, the FSM doesn't say to replace them.

Thanks,
Chris

 

You cannot re-use manifold bolts. Need to get new ones. Might be able to get them at the parts store. (where I would try first.....)

 

When you replace the lifters, you'll obviously need to do an oil change so here's a couple tips:

1. Pre-fill the oil filter so you don't dry start and waste time filling the filter and starving the valve train for oil.

2. Dump 2 quarts directly on the lifters and rocker arms before you button it up. Also, you can put the pushrods in a baggy with some motor oil and load them with oil by submerging them and squeezing the baggy around the pushrod. This works best when you hold them vertical.

Dump the last 3 quarts in just before you're ready to fire it up. IF it's possible, add oil to both valve covers, not just one. But don't break your breather valve just to put it in the passenger side, if it isn't easily coming out, don't force it, just dump it in the standard fill spot.

Just before the first crank, turn the key on, but don't fire it and let the fuel pump prime the system for a couple seconds.

This should all reduce oiling time, reduce valve train chatter, and ensure you don't have extended crank times before the oil pump starts pushing oil.

 

More great info, thanks guys.

Thanks Aim, I will make sure to do all of that.

Not trying to be dis-agreeable, but what is the reason that I need to replace the intake bolts? I've had a good look at the FSM, and it doesn't mention it.

I have heard that they are Torque To Yield (also couldn't find that in the FSM). Does this mean they are torqued past the point of elastic deformation into plastic deformation? If I did re-use them, would they not still deform elastically, just a little bit further?

What is the real world result of re-using them? Do they snap off, or come loose? Has anyone experienced this?

Again, not trying to be dis-agreeable, just wondering the reasoning/purpose.

Thanks,
Chris

 

They are torque to yield bolts. If you reuse them, they will either break when you try and torque them to spec, or, they will torque to spec, but, not hold as they should, and you will end up with various leaks. (read that: Potentially VERY expensive.)

 

Went and picked up the bolts today, from the dealer. They don't really look special

They sure don't look like they are worth $3.60 each (CAN $$).

I also got plenum bolts. Would these be shortened bolts, or still too long? Anybody know the preferred replacement length for plenum bolts?

Guess I am pretty much set to change out the lifters now.

Thanks,
Chris