Well, looks like I'm getting a new head to replace the one the previous owner screwed up. It is IMPOSSIBLE to extract the broken bolts, especially the one he BROKE the EXTRACTOR in. Soo.....guess i'll be buying a new cylinder head....

BTW, after installing the headers, couldn't resist but to start it up before I hooked the exhaust back up.... ahh.....sounds sooo good. You know how some people buy those soothing sound things to help you fall asleep? That would work for me if it was the sound of my truck with only headers. Ha ha.

Stupid bolts...

 

So here is my question...

Its at a shop right now. Would it be worth it to just let them do all the work? (install new head) for $1300?? (price includes parts, labor, fluids...everything)

Or would it be worth my time to order the head myself and do all the work myself. I'll remind everyone, the only engine I have ever taken apart and put back together successfully is a lawnmower engine. I have never tore into a big engine before. What do you think?

 

Were it mine to do, I'd see if I could convince my dentist to turn me onto a few used carbide burrs and chuck them into a Dremel to remove the broken bolts. Just carefully mill out the shank portion until the threads can be collapsed with a pick, pluck them out, chase the threads and go. Worst case you end up Heli-Coiling.

You can get by with the Dremel burrs if you're careful, but they're a mite too coarse and will want to bind. If you're lucky, when one binds tight the burr shank will snap rather than the coupler in the nose of the Dremel. Either way, go easy, wear eye protection, and take your time.

Nuthin' to it but to do it.

 

You might could pull the head and take it to a machine shop to have it pulled. Save some headaches if you can be without the truck for a while.


If you want new heads, google Clearwater cylinder heads or check eBay for their store. I got a set of upgraded EQ monster Magnum heads for $375 a piece that came with the larger 2.02 intake Valves. Even the stock EQ head is an upgrade and will flow better than stock. I would contact Bob at CCH about any potential issues if you only wanted one head, I don't know what one side of the engine flowing better than the other might do longterm. Might make the pcm bonkers trying to adjust the injectors.

The EQ's were designed as a stock replacement but have hardened exhaust valve seats so they won't crqck between the valve seats as the stockers are prone to do. The foundry in Australia that produced them reworeed the poets just a little and also ended up with a smoother casting in the end as well, hence the improved flow.
Performance shops like Hughesengines.com sell them as Iron ram heads, and market them as performance heads. They are overcharging IMO, but they do have flow bench numbers comparing them to stock.

The heads from CCH were fully assembled as well, ready to bolt on and go. The $375 special isn't always on EBay, but they ran it about once a month, back when I bought them. I'd bet Bob might give you that price if you asked if there were any of those left.

Replacing heads takes a full 12 hour day to DIY. You cam get a full upper engine gasket set from rockauto.com and new head bolts for under $150 and so long as you have your own torque wrench and fuel line disconnect, and a good socket and wrench set its not an amazingly difficult job, just time consuming.

You could also ask the shop what they charge for labor only if you bring them all the gaskets and heads.

Oh yeah, intake manifold bolts are torque to yeild, you should probably replace those as well. And if you pull the intake off and notice a blown belly pan gasket, the upper engine kit has that gasket as well. That will require an inch lb torque wrench.